Category: Split

Split is a vast coastal city with a vibrant, atmospheric Old Town at its heart….a maze of narrow alleys, little squares, boutiques, galleries and restaurants. In the 4^th century Roman Emperor Diocletian wanted to retire to his native Dalmatia and built a vast palace here, a palace that forms the nucleus of Split’s sightseeing today. We happily spent two days puttering around before taking a ferry to Hvar and on to Korčula.

While staying in the heart of the old town would have been convenient we found it no hardship to walk the extra couple of blocks to Sperun (street). Jalena and Ana Bura have done an excellent job converting this tiny three-storey house into a lovely apartment. Climb the steep narrow stairs to the second floor living room and kitchen then up a narrow spiral staircase to the bedroom and bathroom under the eaves. BURA APARTMENT, €130, Ana & Jelena Bura, Senjska 3, Split, tel:  915 839 931, buraivan@gmail.com.

Just steps away from our accommodation we found SPERUN BISTRO the ideal place to eat breakfast offering everything from healthy fruit and yogurt to vast cooked breakfasts. All presided over by friendly owner Zdravko Banovic. Lunch and excellent value for money dinners are also served. Across the street is the more up market SPERUN PRESTAURANT. We so enjoyed dinner on our first night that we kept coming back. Sperun Restaurant & Sperun Bistro, Sperun 3, Split, Tel 021 346 999, Mob 098 449 515, Owner Zdravko Banovic

Highlights of our stay in Split were:

WATERFRONT– the RIVA: Strolling the pedestrian promenade along the waterfront is a popular pastime for residents as well as visitors. If you are tired after a day of sightseeing there is no shortage of outdoor cafes where you can sit and people watch.

PEOPLES SQUARE (Narodni Trg): Just outside the town walls this most attractive square is called Pjaca (pronounced like the Italian piazza). Here you find the “Iron Gate” into the city, the Gradska Kavana a longtime meeting place for locals (great ambiance, disappointing food) and the onetime City Hall that now host exhibitions.

FISH MARKET: Fancy your fish fresh, this is the place to buy it, come early in the day. In the evening the little square outside the market building is a casual fish restaurant—choose your fish and have it cooked.

FRUIT SQUARE (Vocni Trg): This little square fronting onto the Riva at the roundabout is named for the produce that was once sold here.

DIOCLETIAN PALACE: Split’s old town is built on the remains of a Roman Palace built for Emperor Diocletian’s retirement (died AD 316). Split’s premier activity is touring the remains of this huge complex in the heart of the city. You can self-tour with a guide book or take one of the many walking tours. Orient yourself by studying the large model of the town at the ferry end of the Riva.

DIOCLETIAN PALACE CELLARS: These massive cellars with their stout pillars were built to even out the palace’s foundation. Over the years they were used for water storage, sewers, the town dump, shelter from marauders and latterly a portion has become the town market with a vast array of mostly tacky souvenirs. Before you go shopping buy a ticket to explore the impressive maze of cellars.

DIOCLETIAN PALACE PERISTYLE (Peristil): This impressive square with its red granite pillars is the heart of the palace. Here you find the Cathedral of St Dominus-formerly Diocletian’s mausoleum, the stairs that lead to the domed Entry Vestibule and the entrance to the narrow alley that brings you to Jupiter’s Temple. You’ll find the café on the square offers live music on warm evenings.

DIOCLETIAN PALACE ENTRY VESTIBULE: The entrance to Diocletian’s living quarters was built to impress. The hole in the ceiling was once covered by a dome and the ceiling decorated with frescoes. The acoustics are perfect for klapa singers who are often found here performing capella harmonies.

DIOCLETIAN PALACE CATHEDRAL OF ST DOMNUS: Climb the steep steps to the top of the bell tower and be rewarded with sweeping views of Split. The tiny cathedral is housed in what was Diocletian’s tomb. You need separate tickets for the cathedral and the bell tower.

DIOCLETIAN PALACE JUPITER’S TEMPLE: Found down a narrow alley off the Peristyle. Diocletian believed himself to be Jupiter reincarnated so opposite his tomb (no houses cluttering the view in those days) he built Jupiter’s Temple. It later converted to a baptistery with a massive 12^th century baptismal font.  Above the font is a statue of John the Baptist by Ivan Mestrovic, Croatia’s answer to Rodin (1883-1962).

DIOCLETIAN PALACE GOLDEN GATE (Zlatna Vrata): This was the main entry into Diocletian’s Palace. It’s double door design kept the palace safe. From the outside of the gate you get an unobstructed view of how the palace walls looked before so many buildings were tacked onto them. The big statue is by Ivan Mestrovic, Croatia’s answer to Rodin, of Bishop Gregory of Nin. People rub his toe for good luck.