The Plitvice Lakes is one of Croatia’s major tourist attractions, a verdant valley of 16 lakes strung together with waterfalls and tumbling rivers with miles of elevated wooden walkways. Stay one or two nights and spend the day hiking. We spent one night, were in the park as it opened, hiked all day and drove to Split in the late-afternoon. Buy a detailed map as you enter the park-there is a small map on the back of your ticket.
Plitivice’s Lakes are divided into Upper Lakes (Gornja Jereza), Kozjak Lake and Lower Lakes (Donja Jereza). There are two entrances: Entrance 1 (Ulaz 1) by the Lower Lakes and Entrance 2 (Ulaz 2) by the Upper Lakes where you find the 3 hotels that are in the National Park (Hotel Plitvice, Hotel Bellevue, Hotel Jerezo described at the end of this blog). There is no town of Plitvice.
The terraced lakes and waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes are a tremendous attraction so daytrippers come from Zagreb and Split—it can be crowded. In September we avoided the crowds by doing the following: entered the park at entry 2; walked down to boat stop 1; took the first boat to boat stop 2; walked the LOWER HALF (most scenic part) of the Upper Lakes in a circle back to boat stop 2; took the boat across Lake Kozjak to boat stop 3 where we had lunch; walked Lower Lakes visiting Supljara Cave and Big Waterfall (Veliki Slap); climbed the steep path to entrance 1 and took the shuttle bus back to entrance 2 and our hotel. In the busier summer months I suggest you reverse our plan starting walking at entrance 1—thus keeping the crowds behind you.
UPPER LAKES (Gonja Jezera): The most scenic stretch of lakes and falls is found in the Upper Lakes. From entrance 2 a short walk brings you to Lake Kosjak and boat dock 1 where you take a ferry across the lake (5 minutes) to boat dock 2, follow signs for G2 and C as boardwalks and pathways lead you to Gradinsko Lake. When you reach the top of Galovac Lake follow H and G1 signs back to boat dock 2 making your walk a loop through this most spectacular part of the park.
LAKE KOSJAK (Jesero Kosjak): Lake Kosjak, the parks largest lake, sits between the Lower and the Upper Lakes. The 20 minute boat ride between the two halves of the park gives you a chance to admire the scenery. You can take an evening stroll from boat dock 1 along the shore of the lake.
LOWER LAKES (Donja Jezera): Just beyond entrance 1 the canyon opens up to vistas of the park below, a maze of lakes with boardwalks threading between them. You descend a steep path with switchbacks offering views at every turn. Follow the path G2 that winds you to boat dock 3 on Lake Kozjak where you take the ferry to the Upper Lakes—handily there are bathrooms and small restaurants at the boat dock. Two interesting detours off the main path are to Supljara Cave and Big Waterfall.
Lower Lakes: Supljara Cave: A boardwalk heads off over a small lake to Supljara Cave a large airy cavern that surprisingly was a backdrop in several 1960s Italian and German Spaghetti Westerns.
Lower Lakes: Big Waterfall (Velki Slap) The tallest waterfall in the park Velki Slap is a worthwhile 10 minute detour off the main path in the Lower Lakes.
This website gave us lots of information www.np-plitvicka-jereza.hr
HOTEL PLITVICE : The nicest of the 3 hotels in the park. Rooms vary from small to larger with a sitting area – priced accordingly. Public rooms are spacious and open. The restaurant offers well-priced rather institutional food. When booking on the website consider booking half-board-including dinner. Location is perfect-when you have been walking all day it is nice to have a nearby hotel. Book online. (50 rooms, Tel 053 751 100, €85-€120, http://www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/index.php
HOTEL BELLEVUE: The simplest of the three hotels in Plitvice National Park. We stayed here. Rooms are very small, best if only one person moves round the room at a time! The location is perfect. The buffet breakfast offered lots of choices. There is no restaurant we walked 50 yards to Hotel Plitvice. We booked on the website and found the half-board-dinner-package good value for money. Book online. (80 rooms, €55-€75, Tel 053 751 700, http://www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/index.php)
HOTEL JEREZO: A sort of 70s style hotel. The rooms are large and comfortable—not luxurious. With over 200 rooms it’s the largest of the 3 hotels in the park and consequently most coach tour groups stay here. Like the other hotels in the park the food is somewhat institutional. Location is absolutely perfect. Book online. (200 rooms, €110-€120, Tel 053 751 400, http://www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/index.php)















