Category: California

Disney Concert Hall

The Greater Los Angeles area has an incredible wealth of places to visit and things to do so we’ll present them alphabetical order. Choose those that appeal and stay nearby.

Disney Concert Hall: Over 16 years in the making, this is a magnificent building with futuristic stainless steel curves reflecting the bright southern California sun. Designed by California architect Frank Gehry and every bit as exciting as his Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Portugal, the hall is home to the Los Angeles Philarmonic. Self-guided audio tours are available.

Open daily, 135 North Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, 213-972-7211, www.musiccenter.org.

Disneyland

Disneyland: The wonderland created by Walt Disney needs no introduction. What child from two to ninety-two has not heard of this Magic Kingdom, home to such lovable characters as Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck, Pluto, and Snow White? The park is a fantasyland of fun, divided into various theme areas. You enter into Main Street, USA and from there it is on to Tomorrowland, Fantasyland, Frontierland, and Adventureland, each with its own rides, entertainment, and restaurants. California Adventure, Disney’s newest theme park, is located right next door to the main park. Disneyland is open every day of the year and is located at 1313 Harbor Boulevard in Anaheim. (714-781-4565, www.disney.go.com)

Tram, Farmers Market/The Grove

The Farmers Market

The Farmers Market and The Grove: From its humbler beginnings as farm stands in the fields of the 1930s the Farmers Market has grown to a permanent complex of clapboard stalls linked to the adjacent shopping center, The Grove, by a double-decker trolley. The market still sells wares, fresh produce and baked goods but what attracts locals and tourists alike are the stands which offer every imaginable delicacy from gourmet Mexican and Cajun cuisine to fresh pressed peanut butter and orange juice and, of course, gourmet coffee. By contrast with the simple market The Grove is a glitsy Disney-style shopping street of various architectural styles from Las Vegas art deco to Italianate—you’ll find a great many of your favorite stores here. Located at Fairfax Avenue and W. Third Street, Los Angeles, 323-933-9211, www.farmersmarketla.com and 323-900-8080, www.thegrovela.com.

Getty Museum

The Getty Center: Climbing aboard the electric tram that takes you up to the Getty’s mountaintop location, you soon realize that this is not your usual museum visit. Arriving at the central plaza of gleaming white travertine rock and walking up the broad staircase, you soon discover there is so much more than museum exhibits. There is the architecture to admire, exquisite gardens to stroll in, inviting tree-lined pathways to follow, places to dine, quiet corners for contemplation, reflecting pools to gaze in, and spectacular views across the city to the ocean. The exhibition galleries house collections of European paintings (Van Gogh’s Irises, Monet’s Wheatstacks, and David Hockney’s Pearblossom Hwy No 2 being amongst the more well known), drawings (Michelangelo’s The Holy Family with Infant St. John the Baptist), sculpture (lots of Greek and Roman antiquities), illuminated manuscripts, decorative arts (there’s a wonderful collection of Louis XIV furniture), photographs, and changing exhibits. Admission is free. You do not need a reservation for the museum BUT you do need a parking reservation (fee for parking). Often parking reservations have to be made several weeks in advance. There is no convenient street parking. Buses—MTA Metro bus #561 (213-626-4455, www.mta.net) and Santa Monica Big Blue Bus #14 (310-451-5444, www.bigbluebus.com)—stop at the Getty Center. Closed Mondays and holidays, the museum is open weekends 10 am to 9 pm and weekdays 10 am to 6 pm or 9 pm. (310-440-7300, www.getty.edu)

The Getty Villa is modeled after a first-century Roman country house, the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum, Italy. The villa was buried by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in A.D. 79, therefore the architects based their villa, and it’s landscaping, on elements from other ancient Roman houses. The Getty Villa houses the J. Paul Getty Museum’s collection of approximately 44,000 Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities. Over 1,200 works are on view in 23 galleries devoted to the permanent collection, with five additional galleries for changing exhibitions. You can tour with a “wand” or sign up on arrival for guided tours of the architecture and garden, an overview tour or an in depth look into one particular piece in the collection. Located at 17985 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu CA 90272. Access to the Getty villa is only from the northbound, right hand lane, of the Pacific Coast Highway. You need a reservation for the museum, last minute reservations are often available online. There is a fee for parking. There is no convenient street parking. Open Thursday to Monday 10 am to 5 pm. Closed Tuesdays, Wednesdays and holidays. (310-440-7300, www.getty.edu)

Mann Chinese Theatre

Hollywood Boulevard—Mann Chinese Theatre, Kodak Theatre, El Capitan Theater: There has been a renaissance of the heart of tinsel town. The glitzy new Highland and Hollywood shopping center houses the Kodak Theatre, home to the Academy Awards. You can easily recognize the spot where they unfurl the famous red carpet, threading its way through the indoor shopping mall past the pillars posting the names of Academy Award movies of the year. Tours of the sparkling theatre building itself are available, www.kodaktheatre.com. You can catch a distant glimpse of the famous Hollywood sign from the outdoor upper deck of the shopping complex. Next door visit the fantasy of Chinese pagodas and temples that comprise Mann’s Chinese Theatre. The courtyard is filled with famous cement hand – and footprints from legends such as John Wayne and Marilyn Monroe. For the price of a movie ticket (or tour) you can see the lavish interior. The Chinese Theatre may not be the best-preserved theater in Hollywood, that honor goes to the nearby Disney El Capitan Theater whose 1926 interior is now in fine fettle and comes complete with a state of the art projection and sound system, www.elcapitantickets.com. The sidewalk along Hollywood Boulevard is inlaid with stars dedicated to the celebrities (some obscure, some that are household names) who made Hollywood great. Located at the junction of Hollywood and Highland Boulevards. Discounted parking (with validation) is available beneath the Hollywood and Highland complex, enter on Orange.

Le Brea tar Pits

Le Brea Tarpits: Learn what Los Angeles was like between 10,000 and 40,000 years ago when animals such as saber-toothed tigers and mammoths roamed the area, only to become trapped in the asphalt deposits that bubble to the surface in Hancock Park. Excavation of the pits started in 1908. Located amongst the rolling lawns each fenced excavation provides details of the prehistoric animals that were found there. Visit in summer and you can see the excavation of Pit 91 in action, watching paleontologists wrestle remains from the sticky tar. Most of the fossils are displayed in the adjacent Page Museum where you can watch recent finds being classified and examined. Of special interest is a tank that recreates how animals became stuck in the sticky La Brea asphalt, frantically trying to escape from an oily grave. Visitors can even touch a massive leg bone of an extinct giant ground sloth. 5801 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, 323-934-7243, www.tarpits.org.

NBC Television Studios: Los Angeles is the television capital of the world. To get an idea of what goes on behind the screen, visit the NBC Television Studios and take their one-hour tour that gives you a look at where the stars rehearse, how costumes are designed, how stage props are made, and what goes into the special effects. The tour also visits some of the show sets. The studios are located at 3000 West Alameda Avenue in Burbank. (818-840-3537)

El Pueblo de Los Angeles

El Pueblo de Los Angeles: With all the clamor and glamour of modern-day Los Angeles, it is easy to forget that this city was originally a pueblo founded in 1781 to grow food for the Spanish soldiers guarding this distant territory for their king. You catch a glimpse of the town’s history in El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a little bit of Mexico where Hispanic people sell colorful Mexican souvenirs and operate interesting restaurants on Olivera Street. The 44-acre complex of old buildings (some dating back to the 1780s) has been restored and is now a state park. Be sure to visit Plaza Firehouse – the oldest firehouse in Los Angeles, the Chinese American Museum with its historic Chinese herbalist display on the ground floor and rotating art exhibits on the upper floors, and Mission Nuestra Señora Reina founded in 1781. El Pueblo is located opposite Union Station (impressive art-deco building), on the Red Line Metro at 125 Paseo de la Plaza, Los Angeles. (213-628-1274, www.cityofla.org/elp)

Rodeo Drive: Rodeo drive is as much a tourist destination as it is a deluxe shopping street. It is great fun to browse the windows of Gucci, Armani, Harry Winston, Tiffany’s, Hermes and the like. At the southern end of Rodeo Drive, where it joins Wilshire Boulevard, is Via Rodeo, a curvy cobblestoned street designed to resemble an Italian via—perfect for picture-taking. Located in Beverly Hills at Wilshire Boulevard and Rodeo Drive, Red Line buses run along Wilshire.

Warner Brothers Studios: Do a little celebrity snooping on a VIP tour of the backlot sets, sound stages, crafts shops and prop warehouses of one of Hollywood’s famous movie studios. No two tours are alike—it depends on what is open and available but chances are you will get to visit the sound stage of a current Warner Brothers production and stroll down Midwest Street, made famous in the musical A Music Man, and Gilmore Girls. (818-846-1403)

Universal Studios

Universal Studios: Visiting Universal Studios, the biggest, busiest movie studio in the world, is like going to a vast amusement park, there is so much to see and do that you must spend a whole day here. Included in the admission price is a two-hour tram journey that takes you around the 420-acre lot, out of the real world and into make-believe: along the way you venture inside the Curse of the Mummy’s Tomb, encounter the howling fury of King Kong, and tremble in a terrifying 8.3 earthquake. Water World, a live sea war spectacular, Back to the Future, a time-travel ride from the age of the dinosaurs to 2015, and Backdraft’s raging firestorm thrill you with their excitement, while the Animal Planet Live show and the re-creation of the zany Lucille Ball sitcoms give you the chance to laugh away all that adrenaline in your blood. New in 2002 is the Spider Man Rocks rock ’n’ roll stunt show. The studios are just off the Hollywood Freeway at the Universal Center Drive exit. (www.universalstudios.com).

When visiting LA we love to stay near the beach a couple of our favorite places are Casa Malibu in Malibu and Chanel Inn in Santa Monica.

Hearst Castle

In 1919 William Randolph Hearst commissioned California’s famous architect Julia Morgan to design a simple vacation home atop a hill on his estate overlooking the California coastline. Twenty-eight years and $10,000,000 later, he moved to Los Angeles and left his 100-room retreat, La Cuesta Encantada (the enchanted hill), which has never been completed. It’s a jaw-droppingly beautiful, immensely popular place to visit so it is essential that you make reservations in advance. Hearst Castle is open every day except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Several different one-hour and forty-five-minute tours are available. Also from September through December, Hearst Castle offers at weekends a magical evening tour and program with a holiday theme. The castle is decorated for Christmas decorations and the staff, dressed in appropriate and wonderful costumes, play the roles of William Hearst and his entourage of friends as they bring history alive. The evening tours are tremendously popular and must be booked well in advance. If traveling with children, inquire also about the special summer children’s programs. Tickets for all tours are available for purchase up to eight weeks in advance. (800-444-4445, www.hearstcastle.org)

Hearst Castle dining room

Plan on arriving at the visitors’ center at the foot of the hill at least half an hour before your scheduled departure, as the tours leave with clockwork-like precision and do not wait for stragglers. If you arrive early, you can browse through the small museum located next to the departure depot where groups assemble by number for their turn to be taken up the hill by bus. Here you also find an IMAX Theater which shows a special documentary of Hearst Castle.

Of the daily tour programs, Tour 1, the overview of the castle, is the one recommended for first-time visitors. You walk through the gardens to the main house, La Casa Grande, to tour the rooms on the lower level. The sheer size and elaborate decor of the assembly room where Hearst gathered with his guests before dinner sets the opulent mood of this elegant establishment. In the adjoining refectory Hearst and his guests dined in a re-created medieval banquet hall—the bottles of Hearst’s favorite ketchup on the table seem rather out of place. In the theater a short home movie of Hearst and some of his celebrity friends gives you an idea of life at the castle during the 1930s. A feeling for the opulence of the guest accommodation is given as you tour the guesthouse, Casa del Sol.

Hearst Castle Guest Cottage

Hearst Castle Swimming Pool

Tour 2 views suites of bedrooms, the kitchen, and the swimming pools. The indoor Roman pool has over half a million Italian mosaic tiles, vast amounts of gold leaf, and took over five years to complete. Tour 3 visits the guest wing of the castle, a guesthouse, and the pools. Tour 4, offered only in summer, does not go into the main house, but focuses on the estate’s gardens.

Hearst Castle Indoor Swimming Pool

Hearst Castle

When visiting Hearst Castle we stay just to the south in Cambria with its restaurants, galleries, antique and gift stores. You can do no better than to stay at the Blue Whale Inn.

Big Sur Coastline

Believe everything you ever read about the beauties of the Big Sur Coastline that stretches from just south of Carmel to just north of Cambria: it is truly sensational. However, hope for clear weather, because on foggy or rainy days an endless picture of stunning seascapes becomes a tortuous drive around precipitous cliff roads. As you drive south on Hwy 1, you have an indication that you are approaching Big Sur when you see the road sign “Hill Curves—63 miles,” which is exactly what the road does as it clings precipitously to the edge of the cliff. While the road is quite narrow, there are plenty of turnouts and opportunities for taking photos.

If you have plenty of time, you might want to consider a very scenic 10-mile detour east off Hwy 1 following the Old Coast Road through beautiful redwood groves and country ranchland. To access the Old Coast Road, turn left just before crossing the dramatic span of Bixby Creek Bridge. You’ll be on your own for most of the journey and the road will deposit you back on Hwy 1, across from the entrance to the wonderful Andrew Molera State Park. Allow approximately one hour for the adventure, and be aware that the road is not passable after heavy rains.

If you opt to remain on scenic Hwy 1, you will find its passage dramatic over the much-photographed, long concrete span of Bixby Creek Bridge. A few miles later, the rocky volcanic outcrop topped by the Point Sur lighthouse appears. About 40 miles south of Carmel is the Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park with its camping facilities and many miles of hiking trails among coastal redwood groves. (831-667-2315)

Nepenthe, Big Sur

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, Big Sur

If you choose only one place to stop along the Big Sur drive, make it Nepenthe, about 3 miles south of the entrance to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. Nepenthe is a casual restaurant, with a ’60s-style decor, perched on a cliff high above the ocean offering unsurpassed views (on a clear day) of the coast to the south (831-667-2345). Below Nepenthe, The Phoenix Shop has a wonderful selection of clothes, artwork, books, and gifts. Interestingly, at the heart of the complex is a cottage that Orson Welles bought for his then wife, Rita Hayworth.

Another stop along the way where you can gain a closer view of this magnificent coastline is at the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. The parking area is to the left of the road. Leave your car and take the short walk leading under the highway and round the face of the cliff, which overlooks a superb small cove with emerald-green water and a white-sand beach. From the rocky bluff a waterfall drops directly into the ocean and the restless sea beats against a craggy point. After the Ragged Point Inn, the bends become less frequent, and as the cliffs give way to the coastal plain, the driving becomes less arduous.

Andrew Molera State Park, Big Sur

Bixby Creek Bridge, Big Sur

Carmel beach

Carmel town

Carmel—filled with Hansel-and-Gretel-style cottages nestled under pines and surrounded by flower-filled gardens—is, in our opinion, one of California’s most appealing towns. Tourists throng the streets lined with appetizing candy shops, beckoning bakeries, a wonderful selection of restaurants, enticing boutiques, pretty gift stores, and attractive art galleries. The picturesque combination of fairy-tale cottages and a sparkling blue bay makes Carmel very special. Its main street slopes gently down the hill to a glorious white-sand beach crested by windswept dunes.

Carmel has another very special attribute, it is completely dog friendly. The whole town welcomes them and caters to them in every way. Not only do many hotels accept dogs of all sizes, but some even have a packet of doggie treats tied with ribbons awaiting their canine guests. When you take a walk, you find the beach abounds with dogs happily romping beside their masters. When you go shopping, you discover pet boutiques displaying an unbelievable assortment of items: raincoats, bonnets bedecked with flowers, jeweled collars, booties, umbrellas, goggles, hand made sweaters, and sun visors. Browsing through the shopping arcade, you find a whimsical stone fountain with a dog’s head. Cool water cascades into three pools, all set at the perfect height for a thirsty pet. A favorite pet friendly restaurant is Forge in the Forest whose dog menu includes mouthwatering items such as the Quarter Hounder (for the hound with a hankering for beef), Hen House Chicken Strips (grilled and sliced boneless chicken breast), Hot Diggity Dog (an all beef kosher dog for your dog), and the Good Dog (eight ounces of grilled New York steak for that very, very good dog). If you want a night on the town without your pet, hotels have a list of pet sitters.

Carmel Mission

Just south of town is the Carmel Mission, established in 1770 by Father Junipero Serra. Beautifully restored and fronted by a pretty garden, the mission was Father Serra’s headquarters. It is from here that the stalwart little priest set out to expand the chain of missions. A small museum shows the simple cell in which Father Serra slept on a hard wooden bed. The church itself, with its Moorish tower, star-shaped window, and profusion of surrounding flowers, has a most romantic appearance.

Also just south of Carmel on Hwy 1, Point Lobos State Reserve is, in our estimation, the premier place to enjoy the California coast. A small admission fee entitles you to day use of the park. Walk along the coastal trails and venture down wooden steps to secluded sandy beaches. Rocky coves are home to sea lions, harbor seals, and sea otters. Between December and May migrating gray whales surface and dive offshore. Bring your binoculars and head for Sea Lion Point and the headland on Cypress Grove Trail, the best places to see the whales. Walking trails and picnic areas are well marked and the times of guided nature walks are posted at the entrance gate. (831-624-4909, www.ptlobos.org)

Seventeen Mile Drive, Lone Cypress

The Seventeen-Mile Drive loops through an exclusive residential area of multimillion-dollar estates and gorgeous golf courses. Because the land is private a toll per car is levied at the entrance gate, where you’ll receive a map indicating points of interest along the way. The scenic drive traces the low-lying shore, passes rocky coves where kelp beds are home to sea lions, sea otters, cormorants, and gulls (remember to bring your binoculars), and meanders through woodlands where Monterey pines gnarled by the wind stand sentinel on lonely headlands. Along the drive is the famous Pebble Beach Golf Course, site of the National Pro-Am Golf Championship each January.

Our favorite places to stay are Sea View Inn in Carmel and Tickle Pink Inn in Carmel Highlands.

Carmel town

Carmel town

San Francisco is special, a magical town of unsurpassed beauty—spectacular when glistening in the sunlight, equally enchanting when wrapped in fog. Following is an alphabetical list of some of our favorite sightseeing.

Alcatraz

Alcatraz: Wreathed in mystery, the often fog-shrouded island of Alcatraz lies in the heart of San Francisco Bay. Numbered among its inmates were Al Capone and the infamous “Birdman of Alcatraz.” Access is by ferry from the San Francisco waterfront. Trips run daily but are extremely popular and should be booked well in advance (contact TeleSails, 415-705-5555, www.telesails.com). Be sure to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes and warm clothing. Tickets can be purchased at Pier 41 on Fisherman’s Wharf.

Bike The Bay: A great day out is to bike from Pier 39 across the Golden Gate Bridge to Tiberon (8miles) or Sausalito (18miles) and return via ferry to the Ferry Building and back to Pier 39. Along the route you can detour round the Marin headlands (additional 10miles) or head out to Muir Woods and Mount Tamalpais (additional 30 miles). Blazing Saddles is handily located at Pier 41(Blue and Gold ferry terminal) between Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf. They equip you with a bike, helmet and map and send you on your way. Tandems, kids trailers, kid seats and tag-a-longs are available.

Bike the Bay

Cable Car

Cable Cars: You cannot leave San Francisco without riding one of the colorful trolleys that make their way up and down the breathtakingly steep city hills. Rather than touring by cab or bus, plan your sightseeing around hopping on and off cable cars. You can travel easily from the shopping district of Union Square past Chinatown and Lombard –the crookedest street in the world (see below) and on to the Fisherman’s Wharf area.

Chinatown: Just a few short blocks from Union Square you enter beneath the dragon arch (at the corner of Bush Street and Grant Avenue) into another world with street signs in Chinese characters, tiny grocery stores displaying Chinese vegetables and delicacies, apothecary shops selling unusual remedies, spicy aromas drifting from colorful restaurants, older women bustling about, and the surrounding hum of unfamiliar phrases. Of course, the streets are jammed with tourists and locals and there is a plethora of rather tacky, but fun-to-explore souvenir shops.

Coit Tower: Located at the top of Telegraph Hill, is a relic of old San Francisco, Coit Tower. The money to construct this watch tower, which resembles the nozzle of a fire hose, was willed to the city by the wealthy Lillie Hitchcock Coit, a volunteer fireman (or should we say firewoman) who dearly loved to rush to every blaze wearing her diamond-encrusted fire badge. A mural on the ground floor provides a vivid depiction of early California life.

Lombard Street

Crookedest Street In The World: Lombard Street is an ordinary city street—except for one lone, brick-paved block between Hyde and Leavenworth where the street goes crazy and makes a series of hairpin turns as it twists down the hill. Pretty houses border each side of the street, and banks of hydrangeas add color. Start at the top and go down what must be the crookedest street in the world: it is lots of fun. The Hyde Street cable car makes a stop at the top of the hill and from here you can easily walk down to Fisherman’s Wharf.

Golden Gate Bridge: The visitors’ viewing area on the San Francisco side offers stunning views (if the fog is not in) and access to the pedestrian walkway across the bridge (2½ miles round trip, wear warm clothing).

Golden Gate Bridge

Museum of Modern Art (MOMA): A cylindrical, striped turret rising from blocks of red bricks gives a hint of what lies within this futuristic building at 151 Third Street. To help you appreciate the exhibits, an audio-cassette can be rented in the lobby to guide you through the museum’s permanent collection of abstract expressionistic paintings and avant-garde photography. Even if you are not a fan of modern art, you will be awed by the building’s interior: the space soars upwards from the lobby for five stories to a broad catwalk that runs below the cylindrical glass skylight (415-357-4000, www.sfmoma.org).

MOMA

Sausalito and Tiburon: An enjoyable excursion is to take the ferry from Pier 43½ in San Francisco to Sausalito or Tiburon, small towns just across the bay full of intriguing shops, art galleries, and wonderful restaurants. As a bonus, en route you enjoy gorgeous vistas of San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge. For information call the Red and White Fleet at 415-673-2900, or visit their website at www.redandwhite.com.

Theater: For theater buffs, San Francisco offers an excellent variety of entertainment. Most theaters are located in the heart of the city within walking distance of Union Square. In addition, San Francisco has fine opera and ballet. The San Francisco Visitors Bureau (415-391-2000, www.sfvisitor.org) can send you a packet with information on what is going on. You can also call the “hotline” at 415-391-2001 for a recording of all current events.

Union Square: In the center of the city sits Union Square, hallmarked by a small park around which tower deluxe hotels and fancy department stores. Do not tarry too long at the “biggies” because just beyond the square lies every specialty shop imaginable from department stores to any number of designer boutiques.

Walt Disney Family Museum: Housed in the Presidio with a view of the nearby Golden Gate Bridge the Walt Disney Museum, through videos and exhibits leads you through Walt’s life with much of the narration being provided by the man himself. His experiments with early cartoons, the breakthrough with Mickey Mouse, the production of early animation films, his move into live movies, TV and the building of Disneyland. (Closed Tuesdays, open 10am to 6pm, the Presidio, 104 Montgomery Street, 415-345-6800, www.waltdisney.org.)

Washington Square Inn

Lovely Places to Stay in San Francisco are: Washington Square Inn, White Swan Inn, and Petite Auberge.

Calistoga, Hot Springs

Calistoga downtown

Our favorite Napa Valley town, Calistoga, bounded by rugged foothills and vineyards, is located at the intersection of Hwy 29 and Hwy 128. World-class hotels, inns, bed and breakfasts and resorts are located in town or a short distance outside. The main street, Lincoln Avenue, is lined on both sides by attractive shops and numerous restaurants. This charming town has been famous ever since Spanish explorers arrived in 1823 and observed Indians taking mud baths in steamy marshes. Sam Brannan, who purchased a square mile of land at the foot of Mount Saint Helena, gave the town its name: he wanted the place to be the “Saratoga of California” and so called it Calistoga. He bought the land in the early 1860s and by 1866 was ready to open his resort of a few cottages and palm trees. The oldest surviving railroad depot in California, now shops, received its first trainload of passengers when they came to Calistoga for the much-publicized opening of Sam Brannan’s resort.

Calistoga vineyard

Calistoga hot air ballon

For more than a hundred years, Calistoga has attracted visitors from all over the world, primarily for its hot springs and spas. People came in search of its glorious, healing waters long before the region became a popular destination for its wineries. There are many excellent spa facilities and two kinds to choose from: with “heavy” mud and without. Among other places, traditional mud tubs are available at Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs, 707-942-4102, www.drwilkinson.com, and Indian Springs, 707-942-4913, www.indianspringscalistoga.com. Excellent spas include Lavender Hill (small and cute, great for couples and friends), 707-942-4495, www.lavenderhillspa.com, and Mount View Spa (a beautiful facility in the Mount View Hotel), 707-942-5789, www.mountviewspa.com.

Old Faithful Geyser, Calistoga

Whenever we go to Calistoga, we always make a point of visiting Old Faithful Geyser, one of only three such regularly erupting geysers in the world. It erupts at intervals varying between 15 and 50 minutes, throwing a spume of about 4,000 gallons of water over 60 feet into the air. This is certainly an interesting phenomenon. Old Faithful can be viewed from 9 am to 5 pm (9 am to 6 pm during daylight savings time). To reach the geyser, travel north from Calistoga on Hwy 128 to Tubbs Lane, turn right onto Tubbs Lane, and in half a mile you see the entrance to the geyser on your left. Cost $8, 707-942-6463, www.oldfaithfulgeyser.com. There is a multitude of wonderful wineries with Calistoga addresses. A few of the best to visit are; Schramsberg, Sterling, Clos Pegase, Chateau Montelena and Vincent Arroyo. As you leave Calistoga, you may wish to stop at the rather commercial California Petrified Forest, a grove of redwoods that was petrified by ash from the volcanic eruption of Mount Saint Helena over 6,000,000 years ago.

Excellent places to stay are Chateau de Vie in the vineyards just to the north of town, Christopher’s Inn downtown, or Meadowlark Country Inn just to the west of town.

Chateau du Vie, Claistoga

Christopher's, Calistoga

Meadowlark, Calistoga

Meadowlark, Calistoga

Napa sprawls for several miles. Ignore its outskirts and head for downtown, which with its delightful restaurants and attractive shopping precinct is more appealing. Napa’s real attraction lies beyond the congestion of the city in the surrounding vineyards. The following takes you on a tour three of the town’s finest: Hess, Jarvis and Trefethen.

Napa

Napa

Take First Street through downtown to Hwy 29 (in the direction of Calistoga), turn left at the traffic lights on Redwood Road for the 6-mile drive to the Hess Collection winery (4411 Redwood Road, Napa, CA 94558). Leaving the town behind, travel ever higher up Mount Veeder. Watch for the sharp left-hand turn in the road after 4 miles. You emerge from the trees at the winery surrounded by rolling vineyards. Visiting here gives you the opportunity to enjoy a lovely garden with lily pond, wisteria-covered walkway, and wildflower garden, laid out in front of an early-20th-century winery. When Mr. Hess purchased the winery in 1986 he set apart a portion of the historic ivy-covered stone structure to showcase a selection of his distinguished collection of paintings and sculptures. The production of wine and Mr. Hess’s collection have been cleverly woven together so you see where the wine is produced—as well as the art housed in two large galleries. No appointment needed. Tasting costs are $10 for four wines. Open 10 am to 5:30 pm. 707-255-1144 or 877-707-4377, www.hesscollection.com.

Hess Winery

Hess Winery

Return to Hwy 29 and cross it onto Trancas, which after 1½ miles becomes Hwy 121 (signposted for Lake Berryessa). Follow this road for 4 miles as it climbs into the wooded hills. Watch for a gate on the left marking the Jarvis Winery entrance (2970 Monticello Road, Napa, CA 94559). The gates automatically open after you give your name and tour information (book well in advance—tour groups are limited). The tour is fun and the structure of the Jarvis Winery is different from that of any other you will see. It also produces excellent wines (Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot). All you see as you approach are two massive doors built into the hillside—it looks like an entrance into a bunker. But inside, another world opens up as you find yourself in a giant cave. You follow a path that forms a loop around the cavern, passing by an underground stream and a waterfall, and visit the Crystal Chamber, a grand reception hall. At the conclusion of the tour you sample fine wines at a small table surrounded by gilded chairs with red velvet upholstery. Five tours a day are offered. Based on demand, extra tours are sometimes added. 707-255-5280 or 800-255-5280, www.jarviswines.com.

Trefethen Winery

Leaving the Jarvis Winery, retrace your tracks back down the hill to the Silverado Trail. Turn right (north) on the Silverado Trail and follow it to Oak Knoll Avenue, a left-hand turn down a road bounded by walnut trees and vineyards. Watch for a small signpost and large gates marking the right-hand turn for Trefethen Vineyards (1160 Oak Knoll Avenue, Napa, CA 94558. Trefethen Vineyards is housed in a wooden building dating back to 1886 and surrounded by towering oaks. This handsome complex is family owned and operated, proving that size is not a prerequisite for excellence. Open 10 am to 4:30 pm, tours are by appointment. 707-255-7700, www.trefethen.com.

Stay downtown in Blackbird Inn or in the countryside at The Cottages of Napa Valley or the lovely Oak Knoll Inn.

Trefethen Winery

Fort Bragg

Just a few minutes drive from Mendocino sprawling Fort Bragg does not compare to the quaintness of Mendocino but it has much to recommend it. The town’s history can be viewed at the Guest House Museum located on the corner of Main (Highway 1) and Laurel streets. Built for the Fort Bragg Redwood company in the 19th century, the building later became the Union Lumber Company guest house and now houses artifacts, photos and exhibits from the town’s early days.

Skunk Railway, Fort Bragg

Just behind the museum you find the Skunk Railroad which runs between Fort Bragg and Willits (www.skunktrain.com). During the summer months you can take either the all-day trip, which makes the complete round trip to Willits, or a half-day trip leaving in the morning or the afternoon. The train follows the old logging route through the redwood forests. (800-866-1690.)

Skunk Train, Fort Bragg

Fort Bragg’s mild, rainy winters and cool summers provide ideal growing conditions for the flowers, trees and shrubs (4,000 spring-blooming rhododendrons), fuchsias, and roses that grow at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens. The gardens are open daily between 9 am and 5 pm. (707-964-4352, www.gardenbythesea.org)

Whale watching is a must if you are here between Christmas and April when the gray whales migrate along the coast. We thoroughly enjoyed the two-hour whale-watching trip that we took from Noyo Harbor with Telstar Charters, owned and operated by Randy and Charan Thornton (Charan handles the reservations and Randy pilots the boat). Randy also takes people deep-sea fishing for crab, salmon, cod, and albacore year-round. (707-964-8770, www.gooceanfishing.com)

Botanical Gardens, Fort Bragg

Telstar Charter, Fort Bragg, Whale watching

Mendocino

Mendocino

Mendocino

Mendocino is an absolute jewel: a New-England-style town built upon headlands that jut out to the ocean. It is not surprising that the town looks as if it were transported from the East Coast because its heritage goes back to adventurous fishermen who settled here from New England, and, upon arrival, built houses like those they had left behind. (In fact, the “New England” setting, seen in the popular television series Murder She Wrote, was filmed here.) Tucked into the many colorful wood-frame buildings you find a wealth of art galleries, gift shops, inns, and restaurants. Do not let your explorations stop at the quaint town, but venture out onto the barren, windswept headlands—a visit to Mendocino would not be complete without a walk along the bluffs. In late fall or spring there is an added bonus: spouts of water off the shoreline are an indication that gray whales are present.

Mencocino

Mendocino makes a most convenient base for exploring the coast. We love to stay at Sea Rock Inn, Stanford Inn By The Sea, Agate Cove Inn and Brewery Gulch Inn. We also love the breathtaking views and utter tranquility of staying at Elk Cove Inn & Spa in Elk, a tiny former lumber town 16 miles down the coast from Mendocino.

Mendocino coast

Mendocino coast

Palm Springs

Palm Springs

Palm Springs was first discovered by the Indians who came to this oasis to bathe in the hot springs, which they considered to have healing qualities. The same tribe still owns much of Palm Springs and rents their valuable real estate to homeowners and commercial enterprises. The hot springs are still in use today. During the winter season the town is congested with traffic and the sidewalks are crammed with an assortment of people of every age, size, and shape dressed in colorful, sporty clothes. Palm Springs used to be deserted in summer when the days are very hot. However, more and more tourists are coming in June, July, and August, attracted by the lower hotel rates. Although the temperature in the summer months is frequently well above 110 degrees, it is a dry heat and not unbearable in the mornings and balmy evenings. In fact, due to the altitude, evenings often require a sweater. So if your visit is in summer, plan your sightseeing for early and late in the day.

Palm Springs cable car

In addition to the pleasures of basking in the sun or playing on one of the many golf courses in the area, Palm Springs offers a variety of sightseeing. The most impressive excursion is to take the Aerial Tramway (located just north of town off Hwy 111) from the desert floor up 2½ miles into the San Jacinto Mountains. In summer you go from sizzling heat to cool mountain forests, while in winter you go from desert to snow. The weather atop the mountain is often more than 40 degrees cooler than in Palm Springs, so remember to take the appropriate clothing. At the top are observation decks with telescopes, a restaurant, and miles of hiking trails. (888-515-TRAM, www.pstramway.com)

If you enjoy deserts, be sure not to miss the Living Desert Wildlife and Botanical Park (open only in the mornings in summer) where 6 miles of trails wind through different types of desert that are found in the United States. Tour booklets are available at the entrance to assist you along the trails, 760-346-5694, www.livingdesert.org.

If you are interested in the rich and famous, join a bus tour that drives by the outside of their magnificent homes. Many movie stars have second homes in Palm Springs.

Two excellent places to stay are Casa Cody Inn and Desert Hills Hotel.