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In Spain Karen Brown is proud to recommend Hotel Pampinot Hondarribia, Spain as featured on the 2008 edition cover of our guide. |
Overview:
Once you fall under Spain’s magical spell, there will be no breaking free, nor any urge to do so—only the desire to return, again and again. However, many seasoned travelers never experience its enchantment, since Spain is considered somewhat `off the beaten path.’ Outside the major cities, you quickly find yourself away from hordes of tourists and happily immersed in the magic of places that haven’t changed for hundreds of years. You will be entranced by the beauty of the landscape, the rich selection of places to see, the diversity of the culture, and the warmth of welcome.
Airfare:
Karen Brown’s Guides have long recommended Auto Europe for their excellent car rental services. Their air travel division, Destination Europe, an airline broker working with major American and European carriers, offers deeply discounted coach- and business-class fares to over 200 European gateway cities. It also gives Karen Brown travelers an additional 5% discount off its already highly competitive prices (cannot be combined with any other offers or promotions). We recommend making reservations by phone at (800) 835 1555. When phoning, be sure to use the Karen Brown ID number 99006187 to secure your discount.
Another option is to visit Flight Reservations under the blue Travel Tools tab on all of our web pages. Here, you will find a myriad of prices from different air carriers.
Europe now has several low-cost air carriers, the largest being Ryanair, offering excellent prices for air travel within Europe. If you are traveling long distances across Europe it might be advantageous to look into flying rather taking the train.
Transportation:
We always use Auto Europe—a car rental broker that works with the major car rental companies to find the lowest possible price. They also offer motor homes and chauffeur services. Auto Europe’s toll-free phone service, from every European country, connects you to their U.S.-based, 24-hour reservation center (ask for the Europe Phone Numbers Card to be mailed to you). Auto Europe offers our readers a 5% discount (cannot be combined with any other offers or promotions) and, occasionally, free upgrades. Be sure to use the Karen Brown ID number 99006187 to receive your discount and any special offers. You can make your reservations online via our website, www.karenbrown.com (select Auto Europe from the home page), or by phone (800-223-5555).
Currency:
Generally, banks in Spain are open from 9 am to 1:30 pm, sometimes 2 pm, Monday through Friday. Some banks (most frequently in larger towns) maintain similar business hours on Saturday. Many, but not all, exchange foreign currency: look for a Cambio (exchange) sign outside the bank. Often your hotel or the local tourist office will exchange your dollars, though usually at a slightly less-favorable rate than at the bank. An increasingly popular and convenient way to obtain foreign currency is simply to use your bankcard at an ATM machine. You pay a fixed fee for this but, depending on the amount you withdraw, it is usually less than the percentage-based fee charged to exchange currency or travelers’ checks. Be sure to check with your bank or credit card company about fees and necessary pin numbers prior to departure.
Many establishments accept one or more credit cards. If possible, pay using your credit card as the exchange rate is usually quite favorable. Paying by credit card reduces the need to carry large sums of cash and thus reduces potential loss in the case of theft. Keep a record of your credit card numbers at home as well as with you separately from your cards in case of loss or theft. Also, it is a good idea to contact your card issuer and inform them of your travel plans.
Driving:
DRIVER’S LICENSE: You will need to have a valid driver’s license from your home country.
GASOLINE: Gasoline is relatively expensive (at least double the U.S. price) and should be considered in your budget if you plan to drive extensively. Gasoline is available in any small town and at frequent intervals along the freeways. Diesel (called gasoil or gasoleo in Spain) is considerably less costly. With a little common sense, you should have no trouble finding fuel. Many of the major gas stations accept credit cards—if so, most display a sign with the credit card emblems.
ROADS: Roads in Spain run the gamut from superb freeways to barely two-lane country roads (and, as you might expect, our countryside itineraries find you more often on the latter). Travel on the freeways is swift, but as a rule of thumb, calculate that you will average only about 50–60 kilometers per hour on the country roads. However, the leisurely pace allows you time to enjoy your surroundings as you drive. The personality of the country does not lend itself to an accelerated pace, nor do the itineraries. There is order to the Spanish road numbers. “A” (A6, for example) indicates freeways. “N” plus a Roman numeral (NIV) indicates major national highways that radiate like spokes from Madrid. “N” with an Arabic numeral (N403) indicates minor national highways that connect the major ones. “C” (C321) indicates regional roads, and two letters (which are the first two letters in the name of the province e.g. TO1234 for Toledo) indicate provincial roads. Their size and the speed possible are usually correspondingly lower as you go down the list from freeways to provincial roads. Roads are constantly being upgraded, so you will encounter many pleasant surprises—a road that looks of questionable quality on a map might turn out to be wider than expected and freshly re-tarred. Some of the longer freeways are toll roads and every so often require that you pass through a tollbooth. When you enter the highway, usually you will be given a ticket with the point of entry marked and will pay according to the number of kilometers driven when you leave the highway. If you don’t know Spanish, look for the amount due on the lighted sign at the booth. While these freeways are excellent and generally uncrowded, the tolls take their “toll” on your wallet if you drive all day on them. Wherever there are freeways, there are also parallel non-toll highways, but you can expect them to double the driving time between two points. Most of the toll stations will take a credit card. This is a great convenience—just one quick swish of your card through their computer and you are on your way.
SEAT BELTS: The use of seat belts is mandatory in Spain, and the law is strongly enforced both in cities and in the countryside, so get into the habit of buckling up when you get into the car.
TRAFFIC: This is never a problem on the freeways; however, on smaller roads it can be ferocious. If you’re trying to cover a lot of ground in a given day, we suggest that you try to drive during siesta time—between 1 and 4 pm—when many trucks and buses stop for lunch. In the large cities, unfamiliarity combined with traffic, parking problems, and the fact that almost no two streets are parallel, make driving a trial for all but the bravest of souls. Our preference is to leave the car in the hotel parking lot (or one recommended by the hotel) and take cabs or walk around the cities. Underground public parking areas are common and are designated by a rectangular blue sign with a large white “P.” In Madrid and Barcelona try the excellent subway systems (called the Metro and marked with signs bearing a large “M”). If you’re stopping to visit a town along an itinerary route, we suggest you park on or near a main square (for easy recall), then venture on by foot into those streets that were never designed with cars in mind. It is not uncommon for parking areas on central streets and plazas to be vigilados (overseen) by an attendant, usually wearing something resembling a uniform. He may direct you to a free spot and will approach you after you park—a small tip is appropriate.
Electricity:
You will need a transformer plus an adapter if you plan to take an American-made electrical appliance. Even if the appliance is dual-voltage, as many of them are these days, you’ll still need an adapter plug. The voltage is usually 220, but in a few places 110 is used. Occasionally a 110 outlet is provided in the hotel bathroom, but these should be used only for small appliances such as electric razors, since they usually can’t handle things like hairdryers. Be sure to check with the manager if the outlet is not clearly marked.
Shopping:
Tourism:
The Spanish tourist offices are a rich source of information about Spain. You can visit their website at www.okspain.org or www.spain.info, or write in advance of your holiday for information. Their contacts are as follows:
USA: Tourist Office of Spain, 845 North Michigan Avenue, Suite 915-East, Chicago, IL 60611, tel: (312) 642-1992, fax: (312) 642-9817, email: chicago@Tourspain.es.
Tourist Office of Spain, San Vicente Plaza Building, 8383 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 960, Beverly Hills, CA 90211, tel: (323) 658-7188, fax: (323) 658-1061, email: losangeles@Tourspain.es.
Tourist Office of Spain, 1221 Brickell Avenue, Miami, FL 33131, tel: (305) 358-1992, fax: (305) 358-8223, email: miami@Tourspain.es.
Tourist Office of Spain, 666 Fifth Avenue, 35th Floor, New York, NY 10103, tel: (212) 265-8822, fax: (212) 265-8864, email: nuevayork@Tourspain.es. CANADA:
Tourist Office of Spain, 2 Bloor Street West, Suite 3402, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3E2, tel: (416) 961-3131, fax: (416) 961-1992, email: toronto@Tourspain.es.
ENGLAND: Spanish National Tourist Office, 22–23 Manchester Square, London W1M 5AP, tel: (020) 7486-8077, fax: (020) 7486-8034, email: info.londres@Tourspain.es.
SPAIN: Tourist Office of Spain, Plaza Mayor 3, 28012 Madrid, tel: 91-588-1636, fax: 91-366-5477, email: infotur.spain@Tourspain.es. The Tourist Offices of Spain can provide you with general information or, at your request, specific information about towns, regions, and festivals. Local tourist offices (oficina de turismo) are found in most small towns throughout the country—they are well marked and usually located in the heart of the town or city. They offer an incomparable on-site resource, furnishing town maps and details on local and regional highlights that you might otherwise miss. Those in the regional capitals are especially well equipped to provide you with colorful and informative brochures on the surrounding area. Make the local oficina de turismo your first stop at each destination.
Weather:
There are three distinct climates in Spain, dividing the country in thirds from north to south. The northern area is subject to the moderating Atlantic currents and has a relatively good climate for most of the year—too cold to swim in winter, but seldom bitterly cold either; summer is warm, but never extremely hot. The central plateau is cut off from those moderating currents and has what the Spanish call nueve meses de invierno y tres de infierno (nine months of winter and three of hell). The southern third of the country has a more Mediterranean climate: relatively warm, though with damp winters, and often brutal heat in midsummer, which is slightly alleviated along the coastal areas by sea breezes. If you venture to some of Spain’s exotic islands, you will find still other climates. In fact, on some of the Canary Islands (just off the coast of Africa), it is so dry that sometimes it doesn’t rain for the entire year.
Itineraries:
This section features itineraries covering most of Spain. They may be taken in whole or in part, or strung together for a longer journey. Each of the itineraries highlights a different region of the country, and they are of different lengths, enabling you to find one or more to suit your individual taste and schedule. At the beginning of each itinerary we suggest our recommended pacing to help you decide the amount of time to allocate to each region. You will enjoy yourself much more if you concentrate on a smaller number of destinations and stay for at least a couple of nights in each, rather than spending most of your precious vacation rushing from place to place. We have intentionally not specified how many nights to stay at each destination—your personality and time restraints will dictate what is best for you. We strongly suggest concentrating your time in fewer locations in order to relax, unpack, and savor the atmosphere and novelty of the spot. We recommend choosing a few hotels that most appeal to you and using them as hubs from which to explore the surrounding regions. If you’re new to Spain and planning a trip there, we hope that upon reading through the itineraries and hotel descriptions, you’ll get a feel for which places merit the most time and which can be done justice with an overnight stay. In other words, this guide should be a reference and not a prescription for your personalized trip.
Clothing:
Standards of formality can be generalized: In the most elegant city restaurants, dresses and coats and ties are common, though only occasionally required. Skimpy summer attire, though common in resort areas, might make you feel conspicuous elsewhere. When visiting Spain’s magnificent cathedrals, it is respectful to cover your shoulders and not wear shorts.
Festivals and Folklore:
By far the six most internationally renowned Spanish festivals are Semana Santa (Holy Week), which is celebrated throughout the country; the Feria in Seville (the week leading up to Easter and the second week after it); the Festival of San Fermín in Pamplona, which features the running of the bulls (second week of July); the Fallas in Valencia (middle of March); the Festival of St. James in Santiago (last two weeks of July); and Carnival in Cadiz (the week in which Ash Wednesday falls). In addition, every Spanish town has its patron saint, and every saint its day of honor, so there are as many festivals as there are Spanish towns. If you know where you want to go ahead of time, write to the Tourist Office of Spain or the Oficina de Turismo (Tourist Office) in the town(s) you plan to visit for a list of festival dates so that you might arrange your visit to coincide with one or several of these colorful events. Be forewarned, however, that hotel space will be at a premium and room rates are almost always more expensive during festival time.
Food and Drink:
The government rates restaurants from one to five forks: however, its rating system is based on such matters as the number of choices on the menu and the wine cellar rather than the quality of the food, so it can be misleading. For instance, in order to receive three or more forks, the headwaiter must speak English and the menu must be translated into several languages (which often makes for amusing reading)—an achievement that does not reflect upon the dishes served. A modest-appearing and reasonably priced restaurant will often offer good, regional fare. A very important aspect of dining in Spain is to acclimate yourself to the national time schedule. Breakfast is at the same time as at home. The main meal, however, is almost exclusively eaten at around 2 pm. Most restaurants open around 1 pm and close about 4 pm and it is during this period that they offer their main menu that can be expected to have almost everything on it. They open again at about 8:30 or 9 pm for dinner, which is normally a light meal and is served until 10 or 11 pm, and, often, up to midnight. Traditionally, restaurants have a reduced menu in the evening, although it seems that nowadays more establishments are offering the same fare at night as at midday, as Spain becomes increasingly “Europeanized,” a process which is taking place rapidly and, logically enough, from north to south in the country. In Catalonia and the Basque country, you’ll find that restaurants close earlier—a fact that astounds even many Spaniards. Restaurants that cater to tourists—such as the parador dining rooms—are the most flexible and will normally offer a full menu in the evening. We feel it is most comfortable to adjust to the Spanish schedule if possible. You may find the service less than perfect if you take a table at a busy restaurant at 2 pm and order only a sandwich, and you may be disappointed if you expect to have a five-course dinner in the evening. Between the tapas (munchies) available at all bars at almost all times and the numerous cafeterias, where small, quick meals can be had at any hour, you won’t starve. By far the most common type of food on the Spanish menu is the wide variety of seafood. Many of these are totally unknown to most Americans (even where the menu is translated, it doesn’t necessarily help). Items such as angulas (baby eels), numerous varieties of squid (calamares) and octopus (pulpo), and shellfish are best viewed as an adventure. You will find many of them excellent and should definitely experiment. Organ meats—such as brains and sweetbreads—are also common and, prepared in many different ways, can be delicious. If there is any dish more common than seafood, it is the tortilla española (Spanish omelet), which is made with eggs and potatoes. It will be found on almost every menu as an appetizer or as a main course for the evening meal. It is also often available as a sandwich (bocadillo). There are a few things you should note about the names of eating and drinking establishments. A bar is seldom what we call by that name. It is usually a place where everything from coffee to alcohol is served and is frequented by patrons of all ages. Continental breakfast is served there too, as are pastries and other desserts. Bars often also serve simple sandwiches. A café is about the same thing, and indeed, these places are often called café-bar—these are the spots that often have tables outside when the weather permits. A cafeteria offers a modest but complete menu and relatively fast service. This seldom involves self-service, but provides a less elaborate setting for a meal than the typical restaurant. Wine is ubiquitous. In the large fancy restaurants, a good selection of imported wines is usually available along with the extensive wines of Spain. In smaller restaurants, the list is mostly Spanish, which is often a rich selection indeed and fun to sample. Probably the best wines come from the Rioja region around Logroño. These are followed by the wines of the Valdepeñas area of La Mancha, which are slightly more astringent. But there are many other smaller wine-producing regions, some of which we’ll point out in the itineraries. If you have no particular favorite, you’ll rarely go wrong by requesting the vino de la casa, often a wine bottled especially for the restaurant, or else a vino regional (regional wine), either tinto (red), blanco (white), or rosado (rose), according to your preference. Sangría is a national favorite, made from red wine mixed with fresh fruit and liqueur, with infinite variations on that theme, and served over ice. It’s a great thirst-quencher and, even if it doesn’t appear on the menu, any place will happily drum up a passable sangría.
Language:
We suggest you tuck in your suitcase a Spanish phrase book. In the large hotels in the major cities, you will probably never use it, but elsewhere you might find situations where English is not spoken. Most hotels and paradors have someone on the staff who speaks English, but he/she will not always be available. When this happens, just pull out your trusty phrase book and point—Spaniards are friendly and you’ll eventually make yourself understood (and probably learn some Spanish while you’re at it). If you make advance reservations, be sure to take proof of confirmation and/or vouchers with you: it will save a lot of pointing.
Plazas:
It may be helpful to understand the general layout of most of the cities and towns of Spain. The “heart” of most of them is the main plaza, often referred to as the Plaza Mayor. Some larger cities, like Madrid, have a central plaza in the old quarter plus others in the more recently constructed sections of town. Small towns usually have just one main plaza in the center of the old quarter, the vicinity you probably most want to visit. The main plaza is frequently the liveliest area of the city and is often surrounded by shops and outdoor cafés. This will typically be the site of the cathedral and other historic buildings and the area where the ancient custom of the paseo (evening stroll) takes place. Plazas serve as excellent orientation points. There is usually parking either in the plaza itself or in a nearby garage, which makes for a good place to park your car since it will be easy to find and you are in the heart of the sightseeing area.
Siesta:
Except for restaurants, almost every place of business closes for two to three hours in the day, sometime between 1 and 5 pm. This includes all but the largest tourist attractions (e.g. the Prado), most stores (El Corte Inglés department store is an exception), and offices. (Banks don’t reopen to the public in the afternoon.) So, about the only activities in which to engage during the siesta are dining, drowsing, walking, or driving. You will most likely find “Spanish time” easy to adapt to.
Telephones:
Telephone calls made from your hotel room can be exceedingly expensive if you charge the call to your hotel bill. The easiest and least expensive way to call the USA is to use a calling card.
Cellphones are wonderful to have, especially at the smaller hotels and inns that do not have direct-dial phones in the guestrooms. Also, cellphones are enormously convenient when you are on the road and want to call for directions, advise of a changed arrival time, or simply make sure that someone is home—especially since public phones in France are no longer coin-operated but require that you purchase a phone card. Cellphones can be rented through your car rental company, at the airport or train stations, or you can purchase an international phone once you are overseas. If you are considering taking your cellphone from home, check with your carrier to make sure that your phone has international capability. Sometimes it is necessary to make arrangements before you depart to activate a special service. We would also recommend getting international phone access numbers and inquiring about international charges before you leave home..
Tipping:
As everywhere, tipping is not a simple matter on which to give advice. Most restaurants and hotels include servicio in the bill, but a small tip is appropriate when the service is good, especially in restaurants frequented by tourists. “Small” means different things to different people, but certainly should not exceed 5%. In informal bars and cafeterias, no tip is expected.
Trains:
The Spanish National Railways (called RENFE) has an extensive network of trains throughout the country with various rail passes, round-trip fares, and special rates available for children and seniors. Trains connect almost every city in Spain. In addition to the normal trains, there are others that offer exceptionally fast, convenient service. One of these is a bullet train called the AVE, which runs several times a day between Madrid and Seville with one stop en route in Córdoba. This once-cumbersome journey now takes a mere two and a half hours. The AVE is air conditioned, offers a choice of first- or second-class seating, and has cafeteria service. The Talgo 200 high-speed trains connect Madrid and Málaga in four and a half hours and Madrid and Cadiz in five, and offer amenities such as personal audio/video systems. Tickets for both the AVE and the Talgo 200 can be purchased in the USA through Rail Europe. Also available are the Estrella, night trains with first- and second-class accommodation, sleeping compartments (berths or couchettes), and sometimes a restaurant or cafeteria service (depending upon the route and time of departure). For long-distance routes, the Train-Hotel offers a new dimension in train travel, providing top quality and comfort. These “traveling hotels” cover routes from Barcelona to Milan, Zurich, Paris, and Seville, and from Madrid to Paris, offering Gran Clase accommodation, superb restaurant service, and often such extras as individual videos in the carriages, private telephones, and personal attendants. Rail tickets and passes can be purchased in the USA through Rail Europe, which you can access for information on schedules and the best possible fares. You can book tickets online through our website, www.karenbrown.com.
ANDALUSIAN EXPRESS: Spain’s answer to the famous Orient Express is called the Andalusian Express (Al-Andalus Expreso). From the beginning of April to the end of October, this luxurious belle-époque train travels weekly on a six-night package. Starting in Madrid or Seville, passengers spend five nights aboard the train, which travels through a landscape of olive groves and white towns, ending the trip in Seville or Madrid. A night in Madrid or Seville before the journey completes the package. This meticulously restored train from the 1920s has thirteen cars including two sumptuous dining cars, two bars (one resembles a London club, the other a chic European bistro), five richly paneled sleeping cars (each with six deluxe, double cabins and two luxury suites), and two shower cars (with twenty showers, each with its own private dressing room). All of the cabins have their own washbasin (suites also have private toilet and shower). This train is expensive, but offers a nostalgic journey that combines sightseeing excursions along with your meals and accommodations. Reservations for the Andalusian Express can be made in the United States through Marketing Ahead—tel: (212) 686-9213, toll free: (800) 223-1356, fax: (212) 686-0271, email: mahrep@aol.com. Identify yourself as a “Karen Brown traveler” using the code number KBG2006MA to get 5% discount (individuals only, please—this offer is not available through your travel agent). In Europe, reservations can be made through Iberrail in Madrid: tel: 91-571-5815, fax: 91-571-6056, email: ibermad@iberrail.es.
Icons Description Summary:
Position the cursor over the icon on the bottom of the accomodations pages and the resulting text will tell what the icon symbol represents.
Air conditioning in rooms,
Beach nearby,
Breakfast included in room rate,
Children welcome,
Cooking classes offered,
Credit cards accepted,
Direct-dial telephone in room,
Dogs by special request,
Elevator,
Exercise room,
Mini-refrigerator in rooms,
Some non-smoking rooms,
Parking available,
Restaurant,
Spa,
Swimming pool,
Tennis,
Television with English channels,
Wedding facilities,
Wheelchair friendly,
Golf course nearby,
Hiking trails nearby,
Horseback riding nearby,
Skiing nearby,
Water sports nearby,
Wineries nearby.
