Hôtel Arraya

In the second week of our recent France trip, we had the good fortune to discover the Pays Basque, nestled in the Haut Pyrenees. After a very positive recommendation by Karen Brown, we chose the Hotel Arraya in Sare as our base of operation, and we couldn’t be more pleased. Upon arrival we were warmly greeted by the 3rd-generation owner, Jean-Baptiste Fagoaga, who proudly announced that we had arrived on the eve of an annual local event, the Feast of the White Pigeon (Paloma Blanca), a gold...

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In the second week of our recent France trip, we had the good fortune to discover the Pays Basque, nestled in the Haut Pyrenees. After a very positive recommendation by Karen Brown, we chose the Hotel Arraya in Sare as our base of operation, and we couldn’t be more pleased. Upon arrival we were warmly greeted by the 3rd-generation owner, Jean-Baptiste Fagoaga, who proudly announced that we had arrived on the eve of an annual local event, the Feast of the White Pigeon (Paloma Blanca), a golden opportunity to sample traditional Basque dance, music, food and wine, and to watch pelota, an indigenous sport. Our host showed us to our room, up a winding wooden staircase past exquisite antiques, art and family treasures. Our sun-filled red and white gingham room featured a balcony that opened onto the peaceful, verdant garden where the only sounds were birdsong and Church bells - a little oasis in the center of town. The recently renovated bathroom provided every modern amenity, including a well-lit magnified make-up mirror.(Spoiled me for the rest of the trip!) The hotel also offers parking up the street, and after stashing the car, we had dinner on the lovely tree-lined terrace, perfectly positioned to enjoy the street activity on the Saturday night before a major community event. As with most restaurants in Basque Country, the menu reflects a passion and reverence for culinary art. The cooking at the Hotel Arraya is haut-cuisine, offering local specialties -foie gras, maigret de canard, palombe en salmis (white pigeon), whole delicate cod (morue) - all beautifully presented.

At breakfast, we met Laurence Fagoaga, who shares the management of the hotel with her husband. She is a delightfully charming hostess, and her impeccable touch is seen in both service and decor throughout the hotel. Breakfast is substantial, and features home-made jams that are available in a small boutique just off the breakfast room. Their deep red cherry jam (also served with foie gras) and orange jam are outstanding.

The hotel, situated in the picturesque village of Sare (officially recognized as one of the 148 “most beautiful towns in France”) provides the ideal base for touring the Basque country, and is an easy drive to the border of Spain. We spent a day in San Sebastian, had a wonderful tapas lunch, and enjoyed the idea of being in another country, experiencing the total Basque tradition of happy cross-border relations. The magnificent countryside surrounding the hotel is criss-crossed with footpaths, prehistoric caves, green fields of sheep and cows (producing great cheeses!), all in the shadow of the Rhune, the Basque Country’s mythical mountain.

The Hotel Arraya is in the safekeeping of an ever-present husband and wife team who manage a young, but well-trained, staff in both the dining and breakfast rooms as well as housekeeping. They were always available for advice and directions. The Hotel Arraya is the perfect blend of old-world charm and modern amenities, in the heart of a very special region of France.