Schloss Haunsperg

An appealing alternative to staying in Salzburg, especially if traveling with children, is the Schloss Haunsperg, located only fifteen minutes south of the city. Set in a residential area of Oberalm, this intimate 14th-century castle creates its own mood of tranquility. As we drove in, Oscar, the family dog, happily bounded toward us. At first I thought his joyful greeting was for us, but soon realized he had come to welcome his owner, Mrs. Von Gernerth, who had also just pulled in. The castle is her husband’s ancestral home, and she showed us through the grandeur of its spectacular rooms with warmth and graciousness. Climb the wonderful wide staircase to the spacious guest rooms, most of which are justifiably termed suites, and are marvelous for assorted family groups or friends traveling together. Outstanding antique furniture, beautiful Oriental carpets, lovely crystal chandeliers, fascinating old paintings, and handsome parquet floors abound in both the guest rooms and in the lounges. Attentive hosts, the von Gernerths are happy to help you plan your day’s adventures over a bountiful breakfast, which can be enjoyed either in the lovely salon or the lush expanse of back garden. In spite of its magnificence, the Schloss Haunsperg is a home first, with an incredibly inviting atmosphere; the charming Von Gernerth family will quickly make you feel like a welcome guest and friend.

Revealing itself to castle aficionados in the southern section of Salzburg is an almost untouched paradise. The married  couple who own the castle, the Gernerth-Mautner Markhofs, reside here amid their large family of guests.

Of course, there is also a castle ghost here as well. A white lady, to be precise, who wanders through the house by the full moon.  But – and this is something the castle’s owners place emphasis on – it is by no means a scary spirit, but rather a thoroughly kindly apparition who, rather than frightening the guests, exudes a rather warm and friendly atmosphere.

But when it comes down to it, the two truly good spirits of this house are very much of this world. Erika-Therese and Georg von Gernerth see themselves, not as austere hotel managers,  but far more as hosts of a very traditional ilk, not treating their guests as customers, but rather as members of their extended family.

It is hard to put your finger precisely on the “secret” behind the success of this place.  Many feel it has to do with the numerous antiques and curiosities, the Nippes figures, the lockets and pipe bowls which are shown off in display cases around the house. Others fall in love with the charm of the quaint castle garden, or with the beautiful chapel. Yet everyone, including those who travel here from far afield with the sole purpose of spending a few days or weeks here, is in agreement about one thing:   Barely any other establishment has such a personal touch.