Zamora

If you have time, detour into Zamora, which sits on the bank of the Duero River. Visit the cathedral on the main plaza and take a peek inside the Parador de Zamora across the square. It is magnificently installed in the 15th-century palace of the Counts of Alba and Aliste, and the public rooms are decorated with beautiful tapestries, coats of arms, and suits of armor.From Tordesillas, turn west through the small fortified town of Toro, picturesquely situated above the Duero and well known for its wines; and then to Zamora, which figured prominently in El Cid and has been a point of contention between various warring factions since the time of the Visigoths. Castile and Portugal battled for possession of the strategic town. It was occupied first by one and then by the other in a chaotic point of the struggle. The fortified town seems to be wall-to-wall churches; but if you can see only one, visit the impressive 12th-century cathedral, whose tower dome ringed by arched windows should not be missed. Its museum has a stunning collection of 15th- and 16th-century Flemish tapestries. The town, with its many beautifully preserved Romanesque monuments, is a great place for simply strolling and poking down narrow streets and alleyways. Its wealth of beautiful mansions and quaint little plazas add greatly to the charm and atmosphere.