Teruel

A half-hour drive from Albarracín finds you in the industrial city of Teruel. Surrounded by the gorges of the Río Turia, it is rich in Mudéjar monuments. Mudéjar is the style created by the Moors who continued to live in Christian-dominated areas even after they were reconquered. The Moors remained in Teruel a particularly long time, hence the prevalence of the style here. Five Mudéjar towers, detached belfries with obviously Oriental ornamentation, are spread around the old town. The 13th-century cathedral has a coffered ceiling painted with scenes of medieval life. One of the five towers is the belfry for the cathedral. Next to Iglesia de San Pedro (which has another of the towers as a belfry) is the funerary chapel of the “Lovers of Teruel.” The legend of Isabel and Juan Diego, who lived in the 13th century and who died of grief at being unable to marry because of her father’s disapproval. They were buried in a single grave and their remains are on display here in a glass coffin topped by an alabaster relief of the lovers reaching out to touch hands. To visit the chapel, ring at a nearby door (indicated by a sign) and someone will come down to open it for you. (Tip a couple of euros.)Just east is the triangular Plaza del Torico (baby bull), a popular gathering place with a tiny statue of, logically enough, a baby bull in the center.