Molina De Aragón

travel north on what must be one of Spain’s best country roads (N234) towards the tidy farming center of Monreal del Campo, at the foot of the Sierra Menera, and bear left by the impressive, tiny fortified town of Pozuel del Campo with its crumbling walls and huge, imposing church. Continue to Molina de Aragón, an ancient, pre-Moorish village, once a hotly disputed strong point between warring Aragón and Castile. Perched above the town is a dramatic, red-tinged fortress surrounded by extensive crumbling walls and several restored towers, of which one, the 11th-century Torre de Aragón, is a national monument. This fortress was one of several, including Sigüenza and Alarcón, which served as a second line of Christian defense during the Reconquest. Turn north in Molina de Aragón, first along a flat road through farmland, then on a more scenic drive through rugged countryside toward Nuévalos, and the Monasterio de Piedra, a monastery founded in 1195 that was by the 18^th century a vast monastic establishment. You can tour the older portion of the buildings: the chapter house, the refectory, the Cistercian monks’ cellars and the kitchen that was allegedly the first place in Europe where drinking chocolate, from Mexico, was prepared. A hotel is located within the monastic buildings—see listing. Surrounding the monastery is a lush park watered by the river that flows through the grounds in capricious ways, forming waterfalls and pools of great beauty. Be sure to visit the series of waterfalls La Caprichosa (the whimsical lady) and the 52-meter Cola de Caballo (horse’s tail)—you can see both from a vista point and from underneath in the Iris Grotto. In contrast to the rushing cascades, the lake properly carries the name of Mirror Lake, a truly spectacular natural sight. Buy a ticket at the entrance and follow the arrows for an unforgettable stroll.