Lamego

From Miradouro da Boa Vista, continue on to Lamego, known as the “museum city” because it retains much of its original Visigothic flavor. Lamego is thought to have been settled first in 500 BC, and it was later destroyed then rebuilt by the Romans. It changed hands several times during the Moorish period and was finally retaken definitively in 1037. The first Cortes (loosely akin to a parliament) in the young Portuguese nation was held here in 1143 and proclaimed Afonso Henriques as King Afonso I, the first ruler of the Portuguese kingdom (although he had proclaimed himself king in 1139, the act confirmed his status). In later epochs its importance can be attributed to its situation on the main road connecting Braga and Guimarães in Portugal to Cordoba and Sevilla in Spain. Lamego is justly proud of its long history of national importance, and its early reconquest by the Christians is the reason for its surprising number of handsome churches and chapels.A castle keep looms over the town of Lamego. The Romanesque structure dates from the 12th century, but the Moors built the encircling wall in the 11th century to shelter their castle, which was on the same spot. Its underground cistern is unique in Portugal and was probably also a Moorish contribution. Lamego’s Cathedral is also 12th century, but the square tower is all that remains of the original edifice—the rest was periodically remodeled in the 16th and 17th centuries. The cloisters were added in the 16th century, along with the lovely chapels of Santo Antonio and São Nicolau. Across the square and to the right of the cathedral is the former Episcopal Palace, now housing an attractive museum with early Portuguese paintings, Flemish tapestries, sculpture, and antique furniture.A walk south from the cathedral leads to an area of town with numerous fine old mansions and palaces of 17th- and 18th-century vintage. At the end of Rua Cardoso Avelino is Lamego’s most attractive church, Nossa Senhora do Desterro. It dates from the 17th century and is richly decorated with azulejos and carved wood. Just north of there is the Church of the Holy Cross, also well appointed inside. Lamego is also noted for its smoked ham, and of course its sparkling white wine. The city is appealing and typical of the older cities in the interior of Portugal. Just south of Lamego there is a delightful little inn, the Quinta da Timpeira.On a hill southeast is the beautifully situated Nossa Senhora dos Remedios, an elaborate baroque sanctuary built in the 18th century and dedicated to the patron saint of Lamego. Approximately 700 stairs ascend the hillside, interrupted by landings, pavilions, statues, and fountains. If you consider hundreds of steps intimidating, note that the church can also be reached by car from the other side. The view over the town and countryside is spectacular from the terrace of the chapel. This serves as a pilgrimage church during Lamego’s annual festival in late August and early September. The festival is one of the country’s most famous and is marked by music of all types, parades, and a procession featuring religious figures traditionally drawn by oxen.