Setúbal

The road from Lisbon continues on to Setúbal, a bustling city, and the third largest seaport after Lisbon and Porto. Setúbal is the gateway to the cork-producing region (cork is one of Portugal’s biggest exports). The only part of Setúbal that offers a bit of charm is the old town around Bocage Square. (Bocage, one of Portugal’s most famous poets, was born in Setúbal in the 18th century.) Stroll along the picturesque winding streets and alleyways, some of which have been converted to pedestrian-only use. A couple of blocks northeast of the square is the Municipal Museum, housed in a 17th-century convent. The 15th-century Igreja de Jesus adjoining it is thought to be the earliest example of that highly Portuguese-style, late-Gothic architecture called Manueline, named for King Manuel I. Look up from the Bocage Square and you will see on the hill, watching over the city, the 16th-century Pousada de Setúbal–São Filipe. The castle was commissioned by Philip II of Spain (later Philip of Portugal) who employed the Italian military architect Filipo Terzi to design a castle impregnable against attack by the British. (King Philip II was a bit sensitive about the English navy who had defeated his Spanish Armada.) Even if you do not spend the night, climb the stairs inside the castle walls to the pousada and enjoy refreshments on the magnificent outdoor terrace with its stunning views of the sea, the port, and the countryside of the Serra da Cerrábida, a mountain range protecting the mouth of the River Sado. If you spend the night, ask if you can see the underground maze of tunnels. One of these passageways cuts through the hill all the way down to the harbor where escape boats were secreted. This was an emergency escape route in case the castle was invaded.There is also a pousada tucked into an ancient fortress, perched 250 meters above the town. The Pousada de Palmela–Castelo de Palmela—one of Portugal’s finest—occupies a 15th-century convent constructed within the confines of the castle. The stronghold was used by the Romans and the Moors and was destroyed and rebuilt numerous times throughout its history. The fortress was taken from the Moors in the 12th century and was the headquarters of the Portuguese Knights of Saint James in the 13th century. It was abandoned after the earthquake of 1755 and restored in 1979 with the opening of the pousada. Don’t miss the views from the ramparts, especially from the 14th-century keep (next to the ruins of the Church of Santa Maria, victim of the 1755 quake). Walking the castle grounds is like a return to the legendary time of chivalry. Just below the castle is Palmela, a picturesque white town crossed by narrow streets winding to quaint little squares. Both the Church of São Pedro and the Church of the Misericordia are worth a visit for their azulejo interior decoration. The 15th-century Church of Santiago, next to the pousada, is another fine example of azulejo adornment, and its upper choir is thought to be the first in Portugal.