Castelo De Paiva

Head out of Porto by driving east along the river past the Maria Pia Bridge until you come to N108. Turn right and hug the riverbank until just before reaching the town of Entre-os-Rios, which means “between the rivers,” so-named because it stands at the confluence of the Douro and the Tamega. Cross the Douro in the direction of Castelo de Paiva, a charming little wine town cozily sheltered by intensely green hills. Take N222 east toward Cinfães and, as you pass through the terraced slopes, you’ll notice farmers working their fields by hand, just as it has always been done—the steep terrain isn’t amenable to modern farm machinery. Most of the houses are on steep hillsides and appear accessible only on foot. Just before arriving in Cinfaes you pass the Carrapatelo Dam with what is said to be the largest navigation lock in Europe. Portugal’s long-term goal is to make the Douro navigable from Spain to the sea, so the dams have all been built with locks for that eventuality. Besides being the commercial wine center of the vinho verde region, Cinfães is also known for its handicrafts: weaving, basketry, lace, and wood miniatures—a favorite model being the barco rabelo. These flat-bottomed sailboats were the traditional transporters of goods, especially wine, down the Douro (the shallow drafts were necessary because of the widely varying depth of the water). Today, tanker trucks and the railroad have largely replaced them.