Barcelos

Leave Porto heading north through the suburbs on A3 toward Braga. Take the turnoff to Barcelos, center of a thriving handicraft region. You cross the River Cavado on an interesting 15th-century bridge as you enter town. If you happen to be here on Thursday, you will see everything from pottery to basketry to linen displayed at the open market in the huge main square called the Campo da Republica in the center of town. On any other day you should visit the Centro de Artesanato in the Largo da Porta Nova, just off the southwest corner of the square, which sells a wide variety of local handicrafts. It is housed in a tower remaining from the 16th-century town fortifications. Nearby is the 18th-century municipal garden with pretty baroque fountains and ornate walls.By far the most famous folk-art ceramic around here (and perhaps in all of Portugal) is the Galo de Barcelos, or Barcelos cock, a multicolored rooster, available in all sizes, which you’ll find for sale throughout the country. The cock symbolizes this ancient legend: A Galician passing through Barcelos on his way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain was accused and convicted of a crime. During his final plea at the judge’s house, he exclaimed in frustration, “As certainly as I am innocent, it is equally certain that cock will rise up and crow when I am hanged.” The chicken in question was a roasted one on the judge’s dinner table, and the pilgrim’s claim provoked much laughter among those present. And, of course, at the proper moment the roasted chicken arose and crowed. The judge managed to get to the gallows before the poor fellow met his fate and released him. He returned to Barcelos many years later and built a monument to Saint James, which is now in the Archaeological Museum of the city. The Archaeological Museum, partially in the open air, is housed in the former Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, as is the Regional Ceramics Museum, a collection of colorful native pottery. The palace is located a few blocks southwest of the main square, near the bridge across the Cavado, where you can also see the parish church with its fine azulejos. Opposite the palace is the Solar dos Pinheiros, a 15th-century granite mansion that is very representative of other admirable old mansions in the vicinity.