Lagos

Lagos, now a bustling large city, has a delightful historic core centering around the harbor. The Avenida dos Descobrimentos separates Lagos from the sea. At the westerly edge of the Avenida, jutting out over the entrance to the harbor, is the 17th-century Forte Ponta da Bandeira, a sturdy, square, stone fortress with jaunty little watchtowers perched on each corner. A drawbridge leads into the inner courtyard. Inside are displays of the Great Discoveries and also a small 17th-century chapel. Follow the remains of the town’s ancient walls to Praça do Infante, presided over by Prince Henry the Navigator who called it home for a while. In 1441 Prince Henry’s explorer, Nuno Tristão, brought back slaves from the Sahara. On one corner of the square you find the first slave market to appear in Europe, set up in Lagos under the arches of the Customs House. A cobbled lane leads you to the 18th-century Santo Igreja de António with its remarkable blue-and-white azulejos. In the church there is also a statue of Lago’s patron saint, Santo António, which—according to tradition—was always carried into battle for good luck. Adjoining the church is a small archaeological museum.The Praça Giltines has an interesting statue of Dom Sebastião, King of Portugal from 1557 to 1578. Dom Sebastião died in Morocco in 1578 during the Battle of Alcácer Quibir. During this ill-advised expedition, 8,000 of his soldiers were slain and 15,000 more captured and sold into slavery. The handsome king, who was only 24, became a legend. Since nobody actually witnessed his death, a cult called “Sebastianism” evolved, which proclaimed that the popular monarch was not killed and would someday return to rule Portugal. The belief gave rise to numerous imposters pretending to be Sebastião and offering themselves as king. Sebastião’s demise paved the way for Spain’s Phillip II to take over the throne, forcing Portugal to become part of the hated Spanish Empire. Lagos is also famous for a naval battle fought just off shore in 1693 when the celebrated French admiral, Tourville, sank 80 Dutch and English ships in an awesome engagement. Just before town is a sign for the beautiful cove at Praia de Dona Ana, a beach uniquely situated beneath giant red cliffs eroded into impressive shapes by ceaseless waves. A bit farther west is another lovely beach at Porto de Mós.