El Fuerte

The Copper Canyon is so remote that for many years it was inaccessible to tourists. Only a few rugged individuals made their way by foot or on horseback to enjoy the spectacle of this masterpiece of nature. The situation changed dramatically in 1961 when the Chihuahua al Pacífico Railroad was completed, connecting the towns of Los Mochis (about 20 kilometers from the coast) on the west and Chihuahua on the east, a total distance of about 660 kilometers. You can take the train from either direction, but since the most beautiful part of the ride is that on the west side of the Continental Divide, we recommend making a round-trip journey from the west instead of going all the way to Chihuahua since the last part of the trip is a bit bland. Because the train leaves early in the morning, you will need to spend the night before your departure at your originating town. Many passengers board the train at Los Mochis, where the train originates. However, we suggest spending the night instead in the small Colonial town of El Fuerte, which offers several advantages: El Fuerte, founded in 1564 along the El Fuerte River by the conquistador Don Francis de Ibarra, is much more charming than Los Mochis; you can sleep in later since the train leaves Los Mochis at 6 am whereas it leaves El Fuerte at 7:40 am; and El Fuerte offers the Posada del Hidalgo (featured in our guide), which has far more old-world ambiance than anything in Los Mochis. You can take a bus from Los Mochis to El Fuerte, although it is easily accessible by car on a good road. Once you arrive in El Fuerte, follow signs to the large, central square, where you easily find the Posada del Hidalgo sitting just off one corner. If you get lost, ask anyone to point the way. Note: Although the official address of the hotel is Calle Hidalgo, the entrance is around the corner on Cinco de Mayo. One enormous advantage of booking a room at the Posada del Hidalgo is that it is owned by the Balderrama family, pioneers of the Copper Canyon tourist industry. They were the first family to see the need for hotels and tours in the canyon area and now own most of the best hotels and offer most of the tours. They also sell train tickets, so with one telephone call to their central office (800-896-8196 from the U.S.), you can book not only hotels, but also train tickets and transfers to the train station (which is about 7 kilometers from town). You might be able to call your own cab and also purchase the train tickets for less money on an individual basis, but why do it? It is so satisfactory to have everything arranged and know in advance that everything is confirmed. Work out your dates for the Posada del Hidalgo, the Posada Mirador (second and third night on the itinerary), and the trains—and book it all at once. When you arrive at the Posada del Hidalgo, they will give you vouchers for the hotels, transfers, and train tickets. Also, when you make the reservations for the hotel, ask about leaving your car at the Posada del Hidalgo while you are away for the several days of your canyon trip.After settling in at the hotel, take a stroll around the charming, small, historic town with its attractive, central plaza studded with palm trees and narrow cobblestone streets ornamented by 17^th-century buildings.