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Mexico - Gulf Coast

Tajin

A Karen Brown Recommendation
: Tajin, nestled in the jungle about 295 kilometers east of Mexico City in the state of Veracruz, is one of Mexico’s most important archaeological sites. This once great city was founded by the Totonacs who were the first Indians that Cortés encountered when he arrived in Mexico. Tajin, which reached its zenith between 800 and 1150 A.D., is an outstanding destination, but until the highway is complete we recommend this excursion only for those passionate about archaeology since the access from Mexico City involves a difficult two-lane highway that twists and turns over the Papanteca mountain range. The closest town to the archaeological site is Papantla, located 13 kilometers away. The town, although it has a somewhat interesting central square, is not particularly pretty. There are a few hotels, any one of which would be adequate for an overnight stay, but none with much charm. SIGHTSEEING SUGGESTIONS IN TAJINMuseum: Before visiting the site, walk into the museum to orient yourself as to what you will be seeing. The museum, which is right at the entrance, contains many artifacts from the site. Plaza del Arroyo: As you walk into the site, the first group of buildings is found in the Plaza del Arroyo, the oldest part of the city where you find temples, palaces and ball courts. There are 17 ball courts found in Tajin, which attest to the importance of the city. Some of the ball courts are still in excellent condition. Tajin Chico: Take the path up the hill to Tajin Chico (the little city) where the elite built their homes to take advantage of the cooling breezes.Piramide de Los Nichos: The most impressive building in Tajin is the Piramide de Los Nichos (Pyramid of the Niches). The pyramid derives from the 365 recesses that cover the sides of the structure. Obviously, these niches had some religious significance, corresponding to the days of the year.Los Voladores: As soon as you arrive at Tajin, ask what time the Los Voladores “The Sacred Flyers” will perform, because you certainly don’t want to miss them. (When we visited, there were two performances a day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon). At the entrance to the ruins, there is tall pole with a platform at the top. Five Totonac Indians, dressed in brilliantly-colored costumes representing eagles, climb to the top of the pole. One of men stays on the platform, dancing on the pinnacle and playing a haunting melody; as the others, each attached to a separate rope, step off into space and slowly descend, spinning to the ground as the ropes unwind. A collection is taken for the performers.
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