Puebla

Puebla is a delight: a very special town that is another of our favorite Colonial destinations. Although it has grown into a sophisticated city—the fourth largest in Mexico, it still maintains the rich cultural traditions of its past and the charm of a small town. Located 123 kilometers southeast of Mexico City, it can be easily reached by taking an excellent toll road, highway 150, or by public transportation. There are convenient buses from Mexico City plus frequent bus service directly from the Mexico City airport. For several thousand years before the Spanish Conquest, Puebla was the center of worship of the great god Quetzalcoatl and one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Mesoamerica. Legend has it that when the Spanish arrived in 1519 they found 365 functioning temples in the city, one for every day of the year. After the Conquest it continued as a religious center, with the growing wealth of its leading Catholic citizens supporting rich monasteries and convents as well as numbers of magnificent churches. Until recently many of the beautiful churches were closed as a result of the bitter Revolution. Under the laws of 1857, church lands were sold and convents closed, although many of them continued to function as meeting places for underground religious orders. Today the churches and convents are being refurbished by wealthy patrons to their original richness and beauty. There are over 60 churches in town, many of them centuries old. Puebla’s downtown area, clustered around the central plaza, just oozes old-world ambiance, with nothing unsightly or modern to mar its purity. Some suggestions for places to visit are given below. All are within walking distance of the main plaza and you will find strolling a delight since many of the streets are closed to cars.SIGHTSEEING IN PUEBLA Barrio de Los Artistas: If you like to shop, visit the Barrio de Los Artistas, located at 6 Norte, between 6 and 8 Oriente. This is an upscale, fun place to browse and poke around small shops laden with crafts and art. There are also many small stalls selling really nice-quality goods. Many artists have studios here and there are several antique shops nearby.Catedral de Nuestra Señora de La Immaculada Concepción: Dating back to 1562 and considered by some to be one of Mexico’s most splendid cathedrals, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is tremendously imposing with its twin bell towers, massive doorway, and intricately carved façade. The interior is opulent, with soaring vaulted ceilings, elaborately gilded chapels, baroque altarpieces, and fine oil paintings. Museo Amparo: Don’t miss one our favorite museums, the Amparo, housed in an elegant Colonial mansion. The fine pre-Columbian objects displayed here were once part of a magnificent private collection, but now are on view to the public. Don’t miss seeing the beautiful pieces once carefully selected by some of Mexico’s true connoisseurs of pre-Hispanic art. The museum was named to honor Mrs. Amparo Espinosa-Iglesias, the late wife of the founder of Bancomer who created the museum.Museo Regional de Puebla & Casa del Alfeñique: Puebla’s Regional Museum is housed in an 18^th-century baroque mansion which derives its name from the intricate white plasterwork around the windows and roof that resembles an almond paste called alfeñique. On the ground floor is an archaeological museum while the second floor exhibits the furnishings of a Colonial home.Palacio de Gobierno: Standing on the north side of the central plaza you find the Government Palace, which features inside colorful murals depicting the history of Puebla.Palacio de Justicia: This handsome 16^th-century building with an ornate crest above the doorway is located one block south of the Plaza Principal, across from the south side of the Cathedral.Plaza Principal (Zócalo): As in most Mexican cities, the central plaza is an ideal place to capture the ambiance of the town. The impressively large one in Puebla is a real beauty with fountains, gardens, shade trees, wrought-iron benches, and a lace of paths. At its center is a statue of the Archangel San Miguel, the patron saint of Puebla. The square is faced on three sides by an arcade that stretches in front of handsome Colonial buildings, and on the fourth side is dominated by the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception.Santo Domingo Church: Located two blocks from the plaza, this church is famous for its intimate, 17^th-century Rosary Chapel, whose ornate plaster walls, ceilings, and altar are covered with gold leaf. Talavera Tile: Puebla was the first city in the New World to produce the beautiful, Spanish-style Talavera ceramics which included dinnerware, all kinds of pottery, and, of course, colorful tile. The production was closely controlled by the king and only certain families were granted permission to make the pottery. Many buildings in Puebla reflect the importance of the craft, with façades covered by tile. If you are interested in buying some of this beautiful ceramicware, or would just like to see how it is made, visit the Uriarte Factory (Avenida 4 Poniente 911), a stunning building totally faced with colorful tiles, where the same family has been making the pottery since 1827.