San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is one of our favorite Colonial towns which radiates charm and old-world ambiance. Without a doubt, this is one of the most enchanting of Mexico’s Colonial towns, so perfect that it has been designated as a national monument, which adds to its appeal since modern buildings are prohibited and all renovations must strictly adhere to the purity of the original design. If you want to gently immerse yourself in the delights of Mexico without too much of a cultural jolt, nothing is better suited to your first experience of Colonial Mexico than San Miguel de Allende. The town is a delight to the eye, with winding cobblestone streets, splendid 17th-century mansions, fine craft shops, gorgeous courtyards hidden behind thick, wooden doorways, lush gardens, beautiful churches, beckoning art galleries, chic boutiques, and a wealth of appealing, small restaurants. San Miguel de Allende is a favorite of retired Americans and Canadians, who are lured here by the beauty of the small town, the warmth of acceptance by the locals, and the delightful weather. Many of them have bought splendid old mansions and restored them to their original beauty. The expatriate element is one of the reasons the town is so appealing: without them there probably wouldn’t be such a wealth of cute restaurants or so many lovely shops. Many who have discovered San Miguel are artists and writers, and the town has become known as an artists’ colony, with the added bonus that boutiques and galleries feature many fine works of original art. The town is also well known for its many language schools, the best known being the Instituto Allende, housed in a onceabandoned, 18th-century hacienda. This has grown into one of the most important schools for fine arts in Latin America, with not only language courses offered, but also yearround classes in fine arts, crafts, and culture.For the tourist, there is another huge bonus. San Miguel has an abundance of truly outstanding places to stay in every price range that ooze with charm—from intimate bed and breakfasts to exquisite, world-class hotels within 18th-century mansions. Take your choice from the many places we recommend, all of which are either in the center of town or within walking distance. Many have pretty swimming pools nestled in their gardens, making your stay even more enchanting. The heart of the town is the central plaza, the Jardín Principal (Main Garden). Indeed, it is a garden with a festive bandstand in the center, laurel trees, fanciful fountains, and pathways accented by ornate wrought-iron benches. On Sundays and holidays and in the evenings the square is often closed to traffic. It becomes the scene of what seems like a huge party, with everyone greeting friends, stopping to chat, children buying balloons from vendors, young lovers strolling hand-in-hand, and everyone eating snacks. Although there are many tourists, that doesn’t in the least diminish the ambiance. It is real. It is unspoiled. By all means join in the fun—find a spot on one of the benches, buy an ice cream cone or a coffee, perhaps have your shoes shined, smile at the children romping about, and just enjoy watching the festivities around you. Clustered around the square are many handsome stone buildings fronted by 7thcentury archways. One side of the plaza is dominated by the town’s landmark, La Parroquia, the parish church. This fanciful creation is not acclaimed as a masterpiece of design, however, it is a pure delight with a personality of its own. It was built in 1683 by a local stone mason, an Indian named Ceferino Gutierrez who didn’t really know what a proper church was supposed to look like—but that didn’t stop him. He was enchanted by a postcard he had seen of a European gothic church and decided to use it as his inspiration. The story goes that he sketched his plans in the sand with a stick. Since the postcard showed only the front of the church, he had no idea of how to design the back so improvised with a Mexican style. The result is a fanciful creation enhanced by pink spires that stretch into the blue sky. Of the many churches tucked within the town, my favorite is the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, an extremely appealing church built of pink stone in 1712 by the local Indians. In addition to its many churches, San Miguel de Allende has six patron saints, a delightful excuse for many festivals to honor them. Lining the narrow, cobblestone lanes are splendid mansions built by the wealthy aristocracy of the New World, many of which are still private homes. As you meander, if the thick, wooden doors are open, discreetly take a peek inside to see the many gorgeous inner courtyards secreted within. On Sundays, many of these splendid homes are open to the public. Ask at the tourist office about times. There is much to see as you stroll the streets including the Teatro Angela Peralta, built in 1873, where many famous artists have performed; the Biblioteca Publica, a library in a beautiful Colonial building that houses Mexico’s second-largest English library; the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez, an art institute built within a former convent which has one of the largest interior courtyards found anywhere in the New World; the Santa Casa de Loreto, a chapel built to duplicate its namesake in Loreto, Italy; and Casa de Ignacio Allende, a mid-18th-century home which was the birthplace of Captain Ignacio Allende, famed hero of the War of Independence.