San Carlos

To reach Bahía Magdalena, leave Loreto traveling south on Highway 1, which hugs the coastline. The drive along the coastline from Loreto is spectacular, with Isla Coronado, Isla del Carmen, and the gorgeous blue waters of the bay on your left, and dramatic, jagged mountain peaks rising on your right. There is a turnout at Nopoló with a gorgeous view of water and mountains. Soon after the vista point, the road travels inland, banded by desert, cacti, and high mountain peaks. The road then climbs to a plateau as it crosses over to the west coast of Baja and overlooks a river valley. It takes approximately two hours to reach the town of San Carlos, the departure point for tours of Bahía Magdalena. You will know when you’ve arrived, as the terrain changes dramatically from rocky desert to sandy inlets on the approach to town.In San Carlos, Mar y Arena Tours, situated next to the tourist office, offers whale-watching excursions. It is just a short drive from their office to the pier next to a thatched-hut complex that is home to an international whale-study foundation. The two-hour tour goes to the center of the bay, where it is easy to see whales because of the shallow water and the white sandy bottom; but we suggest taking the three-hour trip, which takes you closer to the mouth of the bay and deeper waters. The return includes a stop by the buoys to see the barking seals, and a landing on a white stretch of beach backed by spectacular, high drifts of sand dunes. If you are hungry and want a bite to eat before the drive back to Loreto, ask Fito Glez, owner of Mar Y Arena Tours, for restaurant recommendations—this is a wonderful region for seafood such as lobsters, shrimp, and clams. ): Local tours are available from the town of San Carlos on the edge of Bahía Magdalena. One of these is Mar y Arena, owned by Fito Glez, who gives a short history of the area before taking you out into the shallow water of the bay. They have recently acquired a glass-bottom boat, which should be wonderful for when the whales swim underneath—which they often do! (Reservations and information: Mar y Arena, Zona Portuaria Int. API de B.C.S., Pto. San Carlos, B.C.S., Mexico; tel. and fax: 613-136-0076 or 613-136-0453, email: fitoglez@yahoo.com.mx).