Loreto

The town of Loreto, the oldest town in Baja California, its first capital and home to its first mission, enjoys a spectacular setting on the Sea of Cortez looking out to the Coronado Islands, with a backdrop of the magnificent Sierra de La Giganta mountain range. It is an easy trip into town from the small airport, with taxis readily available. Tourism has developed to accommodate both seasonal whale-watchers and fishermen who claim that Loreto has some of the best marlin fishing in the world. The first mission in Baja California, Misión Nuestra Señora de Loreto, was founded in Loreto in 1697 by an Italian Jesuit Padre, Juan María Salvatierra. The first structure, a tent, was replaced by a permanent building, and by 1752, the lovely church, as you see it today, was completed. This mission served as hub for the exploration of the entire Baja Peninsula and was the starting point for Padre Junipero Serra’s expedition to establish a chain of missions northward into Alta California (he is well known as the priest who founded many missions in the San Francisco area). Loreto was destroyed by a hurricane in 1829, although the mission church survived. Fear of another hurricane motivated the move of the capital from Loreto to La Paz. After this the town remained dormant for many years, until it gained life again in the mid-1800s when a small band of English settlers came to the area (evidence of this can still be seen in the many local British names). The town didn’t really grow again until the 1950s when sports enthusiasts, looking for unspoiled waters, discovered this fishing paradise. In 1997, Mexico President Zedillo declared the 60 kilometers of coastal waters off Loreto a marine park, forbidden to commercial fishing. Loreto is a small town and easy to explore on foot. The town square is across from the Posada de Las Flores, and it is an easy stroll up the cobbled street to the Misión Nuestra Señora de Loreto. Loreto also boasts an interesting museum, the Museo de Las Misiónes, one block west of the plaza. The museum features paintings and displays showing the life of the early Jesuit priests who played such a large part in the development of not only Baja California but of “our” California (Alta California), which used to be part of Mexico. Loreto has a number of shops selling pottery, baskets, embroidered dresses, T-shirts, and blankets, and it also has the only bank in the region with an ATM machine (opposite the Posada de Las Flores). We were surprised how few people accepted credit card payment, so we needed more cash than we normally travel with. However, it is not necessary to convert to pesos as everyone seems quite comfortable accepting U.S. dollars, giving you change in pesos or sometimes in dollars. It is always handy to have $1 bills ready for tipping.
We recommend two nights in Loreto. On the day of your arrival, explore the heart of the historic town and the waterfront promenade. On your second day, take a side trip to see the whales at Bahía Magdalena. To reach Bahía Magdalena, leave Loreto traveling south on Highway 1, which hugs the coastline. The drive along the coastline from Loreto is spectacular, with Isla Coronado, Isla del Carmen, and the gorgeous blue waters of the bay on your left, and dramatic, jagged mountain peaks rising on your right. There is a turnout at Nopoló with a gorgeous view of water and mountains. Soon after the vista point, the road travels inland, banded by desert, cacti, and high mountain peaks. The road then climbs to a plateau as it crosses over to the west coast of Baja and overlooks a river valley. It takes approximately two hours to reach the town of San Carlos, the departure point for tours of Bahía Magdalena. You will know when you’ve arrived, as the terrain changes dramatically from rocky desert to sandy inlets on the approach to town.In San Carlos, Mar y Arena Tours, situated next to the tourist office, offers whale-watching excursions. It is just a short drive from their office to the pier next to a thatched-hut complex that is home to an international whale-study foundation. The two-hour tour goes to the center of the bay, where it is easy to see whales because of the shallow water and the white sandy bottom; but we suggest taking the three-hour trip, which takes you closer to the mouth of the bay and deeper waters. The return includes a stop by the buoys to see the barking seals, and a landing on a white stretch of beach backed by spectacular, high drifts of sand dunes. If you are hungry and want a bite to eat before the drive back to Loreto, ask Fito Glez, owner of Mar Y Arena Tours, for restaurant recommendations—this is a wonderful region for seafood such as lobsters, shrimp, and clams.