Siena

This is an entrancing walled hill town that deserves many hours to savor its rich delights—you should allow yourself at least one full day here. The ramparts are perfectly preserved with a series of massive gates guarding a meticulously maintained medieval stronghold. Drive as close as you can to the main square, park your car, and set out to explore on foot. You cannot drive into the center of the city, but there are designated parking areas (marked by “P”) near each of the gates. One of the most convenient is the parking at the Porta Romana. Once you leave your car, strike off for the giant Piazza del Campo. This central piazza is immense and, instead of being square, is fan-shaped and slopes downward like a bowl. Eleven streets surrounding the square converge into it like spokes of a massive wheel. Like the Spanish Steps in Rome, the Piazza del Campo is a favorite for tourists who linger here just enjoying the medieval ambiance. It is in this gigantic piazza that the colorful Palio delle Contrade (dating back to the 11^th century) takes place twice a year, on July 2 and August 16. The horse race is only a part of a colorful spectacle of medieval costumes, impressive banners, and parades, and the festivities extend beyond the actual date of the races. Monopolizing one side of the Piazza del Campo is the 13th-century Gothic Palazzo Pubblico (Town Hall) whose graceful arches are embellished with Siena’s coat of arms. The Palazzo Pubblico is open as a museum where you can stroll through the governor’s living quarters. Although Siena looks like a large city, it is easily negotiable on foot and most of the museums are in one small area. After visiting the Piazza del Campo, most of the other major places of interest are just a few minutes’ walk away, clustered about the Piazza del Duomo. There are excellent tourist signs that will guide you along the maze of narrow streets to all the museums. You absolutely must not miss Siena’s 12^th-century Duomo, facing the Piazza del Duomo. This is one of Italy’s most astounding cathedrals. Not only is its exterior breathtaking, but once you enter, you will be overwhelmed by its dramatic black-and-white, zebra-striped marble columns. Don’t miss the intricately carved, 13^th-century panels depicting the life of Christ on the octagonal pulpit. Also, be sure to see the Piccolomini Library. You need to buy a ticket to enter, but it is well worth it. This relatively small room is totally frescoed with gorgeous murals in still-vibrant colors portraying the life of Pope Pius II. The cathedral also has 59 fabulous inlaid-marble mosaic panels on the floor depicting religious scenes. However, some of the most precious of these are covered to protect them and are on display only from the end of August to the first of October. After visiting the Duomo, the following museums are just steps away. One of our favorites is the Ospedale di Santa Maria della Scala, located across from the entrance to the Duomo. At first glance, it is difficult to truly appreciate its wealth of things to see. The museum goes on and on—it is enormous. Just when you think you have finished, a discreet sign will lead you ever downwards to a lower level and a stunning array of artifacts. The building, dating back to the 800s, was originally constructed as a hospital. Be sure not to miss the former infirmary with its lushly colored frescoes by the master Domenico di Bartolo depicting scenes of patients being treated by their doctors. Another nearby museum is the Baptistry, a small museum that, as its name implies, houses the baptismal font for the Duomo. In addition to its beautifully frescoed walls and vaulted ceiling, of prime interest is the 15^th-century baptismal font, which is adorned by religious scenes cast in bronze by some of Italy’s most famous Renaissance masters, including one panel by Donatello. The Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana is worth a visit if for no other reason that to see the sublime Maestá by Duccio, painted in 1311. The central scene of the Virgin Mary is truly awesome. For art lovers, the Museo Civico must not be missed. Here you will see stunning masterpieces by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Spinello Aretino, and Simone Martini. It is overwhelming to ponder how Italy could have produced so many geniuses. NOTE: There is a comprehensive ticket valid for three days that allows you entrance into many of Siena’s prime sightseeing attractions—this is a bargain compared to buying individual tickets. When you buy your ticket for the first museum ask about it and which museums it includes.