Beilstein

Cross the river at Cochem (signposted Beilstein) and the prettiest stretch of the Mosel river valley opens up before you as the loops of the river almost double back on themselves. Soon *Beilstein comes into view, a little picture-postcard village hugging the riverbank below the vineyards.

Walk up to the tiny, cobbled square crowded by centuries-old houses. Stroll up the quiet, cobbled streets to the church and the little castle (9 am–6 pm, mid-March to end of October) and return to the square to tour the little Weingut Museum, which is full of winemaking artifacts, before going into the cool, deep cellars of Joachim Lipmann to sample his wines. If the weather is warm, settle on the Hotel Lipmann’s terrace to watch the little ferry as it shuttles cars back and forth across the river while long river barges chug slowly by.