Creglingen

Leave the Romantic Road to travel through the narrow streets of Creglingen, a mixture of old and new houses, and follow signposts in the village for *Herrgottskirche, a squat little church on the edge of town. Your entrance ticket includes a pompous English brochure, which requires detailed study to glean useful information. Of the five altars in the church, the masterpiece, the Assumption of Mary (1505–1510) by Tilman Riemenschneider, is the reason for visiting. Study the different expressions on the faces of the disciples surrounding Mary. On the altar base Riemenschneider carved himself as the second of the three scribes. (8 am–6 pm, April to October.) Across the road you find a little Fingerhut, thimble museum. (8 am–6 pm, April to October.) Leaving the church, the country road leads you up a narrow valley, across peaceful farmland, and through quiet rural villages to enter through the old city gates into *Rothenburg. This is truly one of Europe’s most enchanting towns (you can drive and park your car within the walls only if you are staying at a hotel—they provide you with a parking permit).