Cagnes sur Mer

Cagnes sur Mer is on the waterfront, a port town struggling to resemble the other coastal centers. Haut de Cagnes, however, is an old section located on the hill, with an abundance of charm and character. Follow narrow, steep, cobbled streets to the heart of the old village. Opt for the underground parking just on the approach to the village crest—you might find space on the street, but it takes a brave soul to negotiate a spot, and unless you find a generous section, the streets are so narrow, it’s never certain that there is enough room left for passing vehicles. The most visited site in Haut de Cagnes, the Château Grimaldi was originally built as a fortress in 1309, commissioned by Raynier Grimaldi, Lord of Monaco and Admiral of France. A citadel was built a year later and then, in the 17th century, Henri Grimaldi had the citadel refurbished into very spacious accommodations. His descendent, Gaspard Grimaldi, was forced to abandon the castle at the time of the French Revolution. During the reign of the Grimaldis, the residents within the walls of this medieval enclave prospered by cultivating wheat, wine, and olives. Mules were used to haul the bounty of produce from the neighboring hillsides and a wealth of seafood from the coast. On the other side of Cagnes sur Mer from Haut de Cagnes, and definitely worth the hassle of its congested streets, is the absolutely wonderful Musée Renoir. (Closed Oct 20 to Nov 9, and Tues.) Advised to move to a warmer climate because of ill health, Renoir relocated to the coast and lived his last years in this sun-washed villa above the town. Surrounded by a sprawling, peaceful garden graced with olive trees, rhododendrons, iris, geraniums, and stretches of lawn, you can almost sense the peace and quiet that he must have experienced and the environment that inspired him to paint—artists today frequent the gardens seeking their own inspiration. The town of Cagnes purchased the home, which displays many of Renoir’s works, photos, and personal and family memoirs. Especially moving is the sentimental staging in his studio: Renoir’s wheelchair is parked in front of the easel, dried flowers rest on the easel’s side, and a day bed which enabled Renoir to rest between his efforts is set up nearby. When you study the photo of Renoir during his later years, he appears so old and yet determined to give the world his last ounce of creativity.