Prague

Prague is a truly beautiful city. Everywhere you look, everywhere you walk, are magnificent buildings, scenic walkways, lovely parks, beautiful monuments. Consider all you have ever heard about the city and know that it is even more spectacular and will exceed expectations. Transected by a wide sweep of the Vltava River, there are two distinct areas of Prague. Again, although it is possible with a city tour to get an overview of Prague in one day, we would recommend a minimum of three nights and two full days in Prague—devoting one day to each side of the river.

There are many ways to explore the city: bus tours (some allow on and off access), smaller, more personalized mini-van tours, via an electric trolley, by horse-drawn carriage, in a classic convertible, by bike taxi and by foot. Note: because of narrow, steep, cobbled, and pedestrian-only streets, some forms of transportation have limited access. There are many places where you can purchase tours—at the many tourist offices, often from the vendors directly, or through your hotel concierge. Given the luxury of time and energy, we recommend donning a comfortable pair of shoes and covering the cobbled miles on foot.

For the purposes of an introduction to this wonderful city, we offer the following narrative that follows the path of an assumed walking tour, which means being able to explore Prague at your own pace and preference. In subtle ways reminiscent of Paris’ right and left banks, the districts of Prague on either side of the river each have their own personality. The Hradčany or Castle District and the Malá Strana or Lesser Quarter which share the west bank, are distinguished by the crowning Palace and seem a bit more residential, with a little less activity, pedestrian traffic, and a little more quiet. By contrast the east bank, which includes the Staré Mĕsto or Old Town, the Josefov or Jewish Quarter, and the Nové Mĕsto or New Town, seems busier and has a higher concentration of hotels and restaurants.Spanning the river, the historic, pedestrian-only Charles Bridge or Charles Bridge" serves as an excellent and convenient starting point for exploration of either side.

DAY ONE: East Side The Karlův Most, or Charles Bridge, is understandably one of the most famous bridges in the world. Commissioned in the 14^th century by King Charles IV, it replaced the previous Judith Bridge, which was destroyed in a flood. On the west side are two towers. The Judith Tower is the only architectural survivor of the original bridge and the Lesser Quarter Bridge Tower that was erected as a gateway to the town. On the eastern side is the Old Town Bridge Tower that one can climb for spectacular panoramic views. Especially appealing with fewer crowds in the soft morning or evening light, the bridge is fun to walk. Numerous artisans, magicians, and performers settle in from early morning to evening and the bridge becomes their stage. The parade of Baroque statues lining either side of the bridge is a more recent addition, sculpted in the 18^th century. The one exception is that of St. John of Nepomuk, who was thrown into the Vltava by King Wenceslas IV and drowned. It is said that the spirit of the saint was seen rising from the waters below the bridge. The statue was erected in 1683. This statue is easy to spot, as its bronze relief shines from the natural polish it receives as people rub it for good luck.

The core of the east bank is the Old Town and it is wonderful to explore, with its intriguing architectural mélange of Medieval to Baroque buildings that line the maze of cobbled streets. Because of its strategic location, Prague was an important commercial center along the ancient trading routes, and the Old Town Square was the central marketplace. Still very much the pulse of the district, within a few blocks of the square you will experience the wealth and diversity of Prague: the Old Town Hall (which you can climb for yet another panoramic view), its magnificent astronomical clock (be sure to be present on the hour to watch the animation), the Church of St. Nicholas, the Kinský Palace, as well as sidewalk cafes, picnic tables, and the colorful and diverse array of transportation offered for exploring the city—buses, trolleys, horse drawn carriages, and even classic motor cars! This is also the departure point for many of the arranged tours.

Leading up to the New Town (Nové Mĕsto) and the impressive National Museum, the wide tree-lined boulevard referred to as Wenceslas Square is reminiscent of the Champs Elysées and is crowned by a statue of the saint himself on horseback. It is interesting to note that the Na Příkopĕ, which divides the old and new town, follows the path of the old moat. Try to imagine the Royal procession as they journeyed down this boulevard from the Powder Gate, across the bridge, and up to the palace. However, before returning to the Charles Bridge, venture north of the old town to a district with its own special ambiance and character: the Jewish Quarter or Josefov. Still an important and active community, in addition to some wonderful shops, you will discover Europe’s oldest synagogue, the Old-New Synagogue, Klausen Synagogue, the Spanish Synagogue, the Jewish Town Hall, and cemetery. Then as one circles back along the river to the Charles Bridge, it is impossible not to admire the Museum of Decorative Arts, the Rudolfinum, home to the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, and St. Agnes Convent which today houses a Medieval art collection.

Note: If you are fortunate to have the luxury of more time, you will most definitely want to spend another day exploring the Old Town as this one-day recommended introduction features only a few of the highlights in terms of the multitude of churches, squares and monuments.

DAY TWO: West Side Once again, we will use the Charles Bridge as the starting point for exploration of the Lesser Quarter and Castle District. From the bridge’s western edge, rather than cross the span, step down to the streets that meander in its shadow and cross over to the small Kampa Island, banded by canals that add to its own quiet ambiance, and a scenic old water wheel. A narrow bridge crosses back over to the Lesser Quarter. This exclusive residential district is home to a number of quaint streets and embassies; here you will also find the well-known mural of John Lennon surrounded by graffiti. This side of the river enjoys a wealth of parkland as well as shopping streets that climb to the castle and the numerous palaces that call Prague home.

With the parameters of just one day to explore this side of the river, this suggested exploration will focus on the crowning palace which impressively stretches along the skyline and overlooks the city and river valley. Strategically located, it is the largest medieval fortress in Europe, the ancient seat of the Czech kings, and has maintained a prominent role since its origin over 1,000 years ago. The reality is that Prague Castle is a collection of impressive buildings in various architectural styles; embraced within its walls are the Royal Palace, The Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, the Convent of St. George, the remarkable St. Vitus Cathedral, and a charming residential district referred to as Golden Lane. The intriguing mix of architectural styles each reflect the various stages when it was rebuilt after suffering the ravages of wars, fires, or simply at the request of the person in power.

There are three entrances to Prague Castle, the principal one being the Ceremonial Gate located on the west side. This entrance faces the regal and lovely Hradčany Square which is bordered by a multitude of impressive residences that desired an address in close proximity to the seat of power: Schwarzenberg Palace, The Tuscan Palace, The Martinic Palace, The Archbishop’s Palace, The Sternberg Palace (which houses the National Gallery of European Art), The Černín Palace, and The Loreto. (Note: Once again, given the luxury of time, one could spend days going from one palace to the other, but for the purposes of this two-day introduction to Prague we are going to recommend focusing your visit within the walls of the castle.) The other objective in selecting the Ceremonial Gate as your starting point is to coordinate your visit with the traditional Changing of the Guards. The fanfare takes place every day on the hour from 0500 to 2300 and the ceremony is enhanced at the noon hour with all the pomp and circumstance of an entire regiment and banner exchange.

Enter the castle through the Ceremonial Gate dominated by the imposing and impressive heroic statues, and pass through to the first courtyard that was an 18^th-century addition. From here continue on through the 17^th-century Matthias Gate into a second courtyard, which is the location of the Holy Cross Chapel; housed in the stables that once sheltered the horses is the Picture Gallery of Prague Castle. From here, a narrow passage leads to the third and principal courtyard of the castle and the immediate and towering presence of the spectacular St. Vitus Cathedral. Although the first church to occupy this site was built in the 10^th century by Prince Wenceslas, the cathedral you see today was commissioned by Charles IV, begun in 1344, and inspired by the great cathedrals in France. Magnificent in structure and overwhelming in proportion, St. Vitus Cathedral is awe-inspiring. Its walls embrace eighteen ornate chapels and are segmented by gorgeous stained glass windows that soar to the vaulted ceiling and illuminate the interior with warm, colored rays. The most visited chapel (which also guards the coronation jewels) is dedicated to Saint Wenceslas, who is more familiarly referred to as The Good King Wenceslas from the chant in the ever-popular Christmas song. Although you will enter the cathedral through the west entrance, be sure to visit what was the entry in the 19^th century, on the south side. The Golden Door displays the ornate mosaic of the Last Judgment. Many Czech kings are buried in St. Vitus Cathedral, and it is possible to descend to the crypt where, most notably, the remains of Charles IV are entombed. It is also easy to spot the ornate silver tomb that protects the remains of St. John Nepomuk, who became a martyred saint when he was thrown from the Charles Bridge by the anti-clerical King Wenceslas IV in 1393. It is also possible to climb the literally hundreds of stone steps that wind up a narrow circular stairwell to the church spire, and although the effort is more than rewarded by some spectacular panoramic views, please note that it takes time and requires good stamina and strength.

Within the walls of the castle, sharing this third courtyard is The Old Royal Palace. With a surprisingly modest façade, this palace was home to the original rulers of the land. Most remarkable about its structure is the incredible Vladislav Hall that in its history has been host to large gatherings and meetings, as well as 17^th-century royal tournaments. As one stands on the wide old plank floors under the expanse of high-vaulted ceilings, one can almost envision the tournament extravaganza and hear the echo of thundering hooves and applause. Remarkably, the ceiling is said to be the largest expanse of unsupported vaulted ceiling in the world. Off the grand hall you can also visit two side chambers: the Bohemian Chancellery and the Diet Hall which hosted the medieval parliament. Before leaving the palace, in a side room there is an interesting film—continuous with different language versions scheduled and posted—of the castle, that offers a wonderful excuse to rest one’s legs.

From the Royal Palace walk round to yet another square, St. George’s Square, where on the corner is the entrance to the St. George’s Basilica and the convent of St. George. Reputed to be the oldest church in Prague, the intimate Basilica was founded in the 9^th century.

Neighboring the Basilica, the Convent of St. George embraces its own central courtyard; once a religious sanctuary, it now houses the National Gallery’s collection of Baroque and Mannerist Art.

Banded by the eastern walls of the castle is an intimate little quarter referred to as the Golden Lane that has a character all its own. A row of colorful little cottages runs the length of the cobbled street and once provided accommodation to the archers who defended the castle; later craftsmen, goldsmiths (who gave the residential alley its name), and alchemists. In the 20^th century it sheltered the poor and was home to Prague’s favorite son and author, Franz Kafka. (A museum dedicated to the memory of this Prague native and one of the greatest literary figures of the 20^th century is located near the river’s edge below the castle, to the north of Charles Bridge; Franz Kafka Museum, www.kafkamuseum.cz.) Today the charming houses boast boutiques selling local crafts as well as the Národní Museum (History of Bohemia to the revolution of 1848). Walk the 15^th-century hallway of the Black Tower, adorned with a wonderful display of defense and armor to the end cap, Dalibor Tower, which was used as a torture chamber and named for its first prisoner. Leading to the east gate and a convenient exit, Golden Lane serves as a wonderful conclusion to your explorations of the castle.

From here you can easily enter one of the many lush gardens surrounding the castle or descend the road that transitions to a public street and leads back down to the river.

Once you have finished your explorations and stay in Prague in the Czech Republic, return south by train or car to the Austrian border and on to Linz in order to rejoin our Highlights of Austria by Train & Boat—or Car. Note: There are also convenient train connections from Prague to Vienna should you wish to conclude your travels there.