Pacific Northwest - Washington

Port Townsend

A Karen Brown Recommendation

A seaport town of no mean stature back in the 1800s, today’s Port Townsend goes to heroic lengths to preserve as much of its 19th-century heritage as it can. One of only three Victorian seaport towns in the United States to earn the distinction of placement on the National Historic Register, Port Townsend and its citizens have lavished years of hard work and loving attention on its homes and neighborhoods. Visitors often come just to walk through these charming, old-world neighborhoods, soaking in the architecture and the dramatically exposed seaside setting. The enthusiasm of this friendly and informal community, home to about 8,000 residents, will not escape you. Port Townsenders love to live here. They are proud of so many aspects of their community life, not the least of which is the abundance of resident and visiting artists of all disciplines who regularly present workshops, live events, and festivals. Whether it’s a film festival at the Rose Theatre downtown or a music festival at Centrum in Fort Worden State Park, the creative juices are definitely flowing here. Centrum presents a very active, summer festival season; in fact, featuring blues, fiddling, jazz, and literary arts, along with chamber music, dance, and theatricals throughout the year. Phone 360-385-3102 to get hold of a schedule for the days you’ll be in town. Port Townsend is small and easy to explore; in fact, best explored on foot. Staircases guide you from the downtown area to the charming bluff side neighborhoods above. Start at the Visitor Information Center (open weekdays from 9 am to 5 pm; Saturdays from 10 am to 4 pm; and Sundays from 11 am to 4 pm; 888-ENJOYPT.) at 2437 Sims Way, near the waterfront and the ferry landing. From Hwy 20, you’ll come after about 8 miles to a three-way stop light—turn left there onto Hwy 19 (also called Rhody Drive). Rhody becomes Sims Way. (If you are arriving by ferry from Keystone on Whidbey Island, turn left on Water Street as you exit the boat. Water Street becomes Sims Way.) Get a town map and directions to the nearby Haines Place Park-n-Ride. Parking is at a premium downtown and the meter maids are, shall we say, conscientious; so consider leaving your car at Haines and taking public transportation the brief distance to town and/or to Fort Worden State Park. A must-see is the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum, dedicated back in 1892, which occupies the original Police Department, Court Room, City Jail, and Fire Hall. The Court Room with its original woodwork, the dramatic City Jail, and the high-ceilinged Fire Hall all contribute to a marvelous feeling of history. The museum honors the people of Jefferson County through a wonderful collection of artifacts, archives, family history, and photographs. Exhibits include The First People: the Hoh, S’Klallam & Chimacum Tribes, The Explorers and Mariners, The Settlers and Builders, and The Victorians. (540 Water Street; call for hours, which vary seasonally; 360-385-1003.) Since this is a walking town, try an Historical Sidewalk Tour, led by a local historian. It makes for a great way to pass an informative hour in the waterfront district. Stories of bawdy seaport life are as entertaining as learning about the architectural landmarks. Call 360-385-1967 to make an appointment. Tours meet at the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum on Water Street. If you are interested in a guided tour of the famous bluff side neighborhoods, too, just ask. The Wooden Boat Foundation at Point Hudson (380 Jefferson Street, 360-385-3628) has long made its home in Port Townsend. It’s dedicated to the preservation of traditional maritime skills and culture, and offers the public a most unique outlet, the “Chandlery,” that provides a ready supply of traditional boat-building materials and tools. Even if you’re not personally in the market for a winch, you might take a look in the Chandlery and marvel at the “toys.” Inquire here about visiting the Northwest School of Wooden Boat Building on the Quimper Peninsula about 4 miles south of town, if you are interested. The Rothschild House State Park is a popular stop. Its historic home (Franklin & Taylor Streets, 360-379-8076) is open for self-guided tours daily from 10 am to 5 pm, May through September. Travel back in time to the 1800s as you step through the kitchen door into a home virtually unchanged since its first days. D.C.H. Rothschild, or “the Baron” as he became known locally, was born in Bavaria in 1824. After traveling extensively around the world and engaging in several business enterprises, he settled in Port Townsend in 1858 and ran a hugely successful venture devoted exclusively to the maritime trade. In 1868, he had the Rothschild House built. When he died in 1885, his widow, Dorette, decided to remain in the house and did so until her death in 1918, allowing only minimal architectural changes. Occupied only by Rothschild family members after Dorette’s death, the house was donated by the last surviving relation to the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission. The house was opened to the public in 1962 and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A flower garden behind the house features many old varieties of peonies, roses, and lilacs. Downtown and Uptown thrive as separate but distinct shopping areas (the former is a business district along the water and the latter a trendy residential section with a neighborhood feel), and the newer Gateway (Sims Way) now adds a third dimension. Fort Worden State Park is easy to get to via public transportation. Otherwise, follow Cherry Street to the northern limits of Port Townsend where it meets the park. Fort Worden was once part of the defense system built to protect Puget Sound, as far back as 1896, and was in use through World War II. This is a great spot for access to the shoreline of Juan de Fuca Strait. Watch the boats go by, take a walk along the beach, or visit the Coast Artillery Museum (open daily, mid-May to mid-September, from 11 am to 4 pm; 360-385-4730), Commanding Officer’s House (open daily, June to August, from 10 am to 5 pm; and from noon to 4 pm on weekends; April, May, September, and October; 360-385-4730), and Marine Science Center (open mid-June to mid-September from noon to 6 pm, Tuesday through Sunday; and from noon to 4 pm on weekends, April to mid-June and mid-September through October; 360-385-5582). When you’re ready, retrace your steps on Hwy 20 then head west on 101 to Sequim (say Skwim), long known for its dry and sunny climate—a benefit of being in the rain shadow of the Olympics. In recent years, the town has taken advantage of this Provence-style weather and is now the center of a thriving lavender industry. Visit some of the lavender fields and, if you are there in July, enjoy the vibrant Lavender Festival. There are some interesting murals in the town, but the other great attraction here is the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge to the north of the town proper (reach it by going north on Kitchen Dick Road from the 101). This is the world’s longest (5½ miles) natural sand spit, protecting a quiet bay that is a refuge and breeding ground for many species of native birds. You can hike out to the lighthouse at the end, and might even spot some harbor seals as well as birds.