Mexico - Michoacan
Zitácuaro
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The closest town to the best known of the butterfly sanctuaries is Angangueo, a tiny town squeezed in a narrow, mountain valley where silver was mined from 1792 to 1992. The village has just one cobbled road cutting through the middle and leading up to the 3,000-meter mountaintop. Although Angangueo is the nearest town to the most popular sanctuaries, we recommend you stay instead in Zitácuaro, which is about a 45-minute drive away. There are three reasons we suggest you stay in Zitácuaro: The first reason is that Zitácuaro is centrally located for visiting not only the Chincua Butterfly Sanctuary, but also the lesser known, recently opened, Cerro Pelon Butterfly Sanctuary. The second reason is that Zitácuaro is a convenient base for other sightseeing possibilities (see descriptions below). The third reason is that Zitácuaro offers a delightful small hotel, the Rancho San Cayetano, located in a parklike setting just outside of town. This intimate inn, owned and managed by Lisette and Pablo Span, has much to recommend it: the lovely Lisette Span, who is French by birth, is a fabulous cook and oversees excellent meals, while her husband, Pablo, is exceptionally knowledgeable about what to see and do in the area and will be glad to help you plan your day. From Morelia, the fastest way to reach Zitácuaro is to take the toll road 15 marked toward Mexico City. Exit at Maravatío and follow the signs toward Ciudad Hidalgo and Zitácuaro. It is about a two-hour drive from Morelia to Zitácuaro. A good detailed map is necessary, since once you leave the highway, the roads are not well marked. From Mexico City, take the toll road 15 west to Toluca and continue north for another 100 km. on road No. 15 (which after Toluca is no longer a four-lane highway) to Zitácuaro. It is about a two-hour drive from the outskirts of Mexico City to Zitácuaro. The Rancho San Cayetano is about 3 kilometers south of town on the 51 to Huetamo. When making reservations, ask for detailed driving instructions. The first day you arrive, after settling into the inn, we suggest a walk that takes about 20 minutes up a cobbled, narrow street to visit the precious little San Pancho parish church, which faces a postage-stamp-sized square in the tiny hamlet of the same name. The church has a rustic interior, stone walls, and a simple, yet beautiful altar. If you are lucky and the charming Italian priest, who has worked tirelessly to restore the church, is there, he can enrich your experience by telling you about this 16th-century church’s history. CHINCUA and CERRO PELON BUTTERFLY SANCTUARIESMost of the literature about Monarchs says that the best place to see them is the Rosario Butterfly Sanctuary. This is the best-known sanctuary since it was the original site, but it is not the place to go. The Rosario Sanctuary involves a 45-minute ride in an open truck over hopelessly bumpy roads, after which it is a long walk to the site. In addition, the Rosario Sanctuary is far more congested and more commercial than the ones we suggest, either the Chincua Butterfly Sanctuary or the Cerro Pelon Butterfly Sanctuary. Chincua Butterfly Sanctuary: After a leisurely breakfast, head off from Rancho San Cayetano for your butterfly adventure. There is no need to rush because midday, when the temperature is the highest, is the best time to view the butterflies, which cluster in huge masses on the limbs of the trees to keep warm. They don’t begin to fly about until the sun warms the air, so arriving early in the morning is of no advantage. To reach the Chincua Sanctuary, follow the road on your map that leads north from Zitácuaro through Ocampo and on to the tiny town of Angangueo. You might want to stop briefly in Angangueo to see its churches, the main plaza, and visit the Casa Parker Museum that describes the mining history of the town. Just up the block from the central church is an historic mural that covers both sides of the walls of a narrow, block-long alleyway. Go through Angangueo and continue for about 8 kilometers as the road climbs up ever higher into the mountains. You will see guides along the way trying to catch your attention and entice you to let them take you to see the butterflies. Don’t stop, just keeping going. Soon, on the right, you will see a sign with a picture of a large Monarch butterfly and here you turn left off the road into the sanctuary, paying at the entrance for parking. As you drive on, you soon come to the parking lot where you leave your car. It is a little confusing from here on, since everything is delightfully laid-back and non-commercial, but just head toward the horses for hire and you will be approached by some of the guides. The price is set, so you don’t need to worry about negotiating—everyone charges the same and included in the price is someone (usually a young boy) who will lead your horse. As well as a horse for each person in your party, you want to hire an extra guide to accompany you all the way to the butterflies, beyond where you leave your horse.Once you are on your horse, the adventure begins. The path, dappled with sunlight filtering through the towering trees, winds up through a beautiful pine and fir forest. The altitude is over 3,000 meters, so although you can walk, it is very strenuous—and the horses are great fun!After about a 40-minute ride, you come to the “horse parking lot” and continue on foot for about another half hour, led by your guide. A narrow path twists downward through the fir and pine trees, and occasionally gaps appear in the dense foliage through which you catch glimpses of beautiful faraway valleys. You will be glad you have a guide, for not only does the path sometimes split, but also it’s tricky to know when you have arrived. Several times we came to small clearings filled with butterflies and we thought we were “there.” However, you will know when you are at the site. A gentle hum in the air signals you are close. At first the hum is almost unnoticeable, but becomes louder as you approach and then, all of a sudden, the air is filled with butterflies. You can hardly see the sky through what looks like confetti in the air. You would think that there could be no more until you glance at the trees whose limbs are smothered with huge clumps of butterflies huddled together for warmth, looking like enormous nests. It’s very much like being in a cathedral: the ambiance is almost ethereal and you cannot help being humbled by the experience. You will probably want to spend at least an hour here, soaking up the sublime display of nature. This is a photographer’s dream, so bring lots of film to capture the magic of the moment. Note: Flash photography is prohibited.It will be difficult to leave this unforgettable scene, but you can’t stay forever. When it is time to go, retrace your way back to your horse and the parking lot. In addition to paying the set fee, tip your guides well. They make very little money and now that logging (once their main source of income) has been halted, their yearly subsistence is dependent upon the short tourist season when the butterflies come to Michoacán. Cerro Pelon Butterfly Sanctuary: Either instead of, or in addition to, the Chincua Sanctuary the Cerro Pelon Sanctuary makes for a superb adventure. This sanctuary, located about a 40-minute drive southeast of Zitácuaro, is tricky to find; but if you are staying at the Hotel Rancho San Cayetano, Pablo Span can help you with directions. There are three access points: El Capulin, Macheros, and El Campamento. The one we chose was the Macheros entrance. The overall quest is quite similar to the approach to the Cerro Pelon Sanctuary: You drive through the entrance, park your car, arrange for a horse and hire a guide to lead you up the mountain. The difference is that at the Cerro Pelon it takes longer by horseback to reach the butterflies (about a 2-hour ride) and the way is much more difficult. This excursion would not be suitable for children or those not experienced with horseback riding. Even if you are familiar with horses, you might feel more comfortable to have a guide lead your horse since the path is narrow and very steep. Nevertheless, the Cerro Pelon Sanctuary holds many rewards. Not only does it have awesome views, but also has the enormous advantage that the site is little known.
Whichever sanctuary your choose, on returning to Zitácuaro ask Pablo Span if he will show you his excellent video about the butterflies. This will answer most of your questions about the migration and reinforce your experience of the day.MORE SIGHTSEEINGThere so are many places to visit in this part of the state of Michoacán that if you have the luxury of time, we highly recommend at least an extra day or more here. Another advantage of spending at least two full days is that if the weather is unseasonably cold (at which time the butterflies stay clustered on the branches of the trees), you can reverse this itinerary and do your sightseeing on the first day, then go to see the butterflies on the second day, when it might be warmer. Some of the places to see in the area are the following: Enandio Waterfalls: This 100-meter spectacular waterfall is located south of Zitácuaro on the highway to Huetamo. At the 21-kilometer marker, turn right to reach the town of Enandio, a distance of 2 kilometers. Stop in this village to visit the church and its 17th-century Saint Isabel of Hungary statue. In front of the church, ask for a guide to show you the way to the waterfalls (there are no signs). You drive along a 3- to 4-kilometer dirt road, park the car, and take the 45-minute downhill walk on a path to a pool suitable for swimming. Be careful—the last 25 meters are steep and slippery.Ocampo: The small town of Ocampo is located about 10 kilometers south of Angangueo. Its attractions include the Templo del Santo Niño, the Hacienda de Trojes, and items by local artisans who specialize in handworked wood.San Felipe de Los Alzati: Nine kilometers west of Zitácuaro, the town of San Felipe de Los Alzati has a beautiful 16th-century church that is well known for its atrium and monolithic cross.Los Alzati: If you are interested in archaeological sites, particularly those off the beaten path, Los Alzati is a treat. Here, in a deserted field, you find the ruins of once-mighty stone pyramids This was an Otomi ceremonial center with beautiful sweeping views of the valley below, best seen in the afternoon before sunset. It is especially fun to visit this site since you will probably be the only person about.There are in addition day trips to other attractions that include natural hot sulfur springs, caves, and the warm-water springs in San José Purua. Information is available from Rancho San Cayetano.
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