Cabo San Lucas

The southern tip of Baja has long been popular with wealthy sportsmen, such as the late Bing Crosby, who fly down in their private planes for deep-sea fishing. Happily, what used to be almost a private playground for the super-rich is now available for everyone. However, the area still caters to the more affluent traveler: the superb hotels and world-class golf courses here are not cheap.This tip of the peninsula, commonly referred to simply as Los Cabos, basically consists of twin towns: Cabo San Lucas (to the west) and San José del Cabo (to the east). The 33-kilometer strip of land joining the two towns is called The Corridor, a once-barren area transformed into a verdant paradise with superb hotels perched on cliffs overlooking the brilliant blue sea, championship golf courses, colorful gardens, and dramatic beaches with waves crashing against the shore. A fine, four-lane, divided road called the Transpeninsular Highway traces the coast, joining the two towns. The resorts that have sprung up along Los Cabos are exceptional. Each seems to vie with the other for originality and quality of design, gorgeous landscaping, and splendid amenities. There is nothing tacky about this area—it is obviously one of money and impeccable taste. Because flights are so easy from Los Angeles, it has almost become a weekend retreat for Californians, and many of them have built homes here. Although the two towns are often grouped together, they are really quite different. Cabo San Lucas became famous for sport fishing and, with a population of 25,000, is the bigger and faster-growing of the two cities. It is much more commercial and Americanized. Many people think the official language here is English! San José del Cabo, with its pastel cottages and narrow streets, is more sedate, more charming, and still retains the feel of a small Mexican town. However, San José del Cabo has become famous by association with its neighbor and is now also growing rapidly.Los Cabos offers some of Mexico’s finest golf and great sport fishing, with the majority of visitors now coming for the world-famous championship golf courses. With a few exceptions, the sea here is not safe for swimming since the surf is often fierce and the undertow strong. Most people are content to use the beautiful swimming pools at the hotels and reserve the gorgeous beaches for walking. The contrast of the stark desert landscape with the dark blue of the sea is magnificent. Other big attractions here include kayaking, surfing, snorkeling, horseback riding, windsurfing, whale-watching, and an active nightlife! Los Cabos tends to be more expensive than other Mexican resorts and, unlike most of the other beach resort towns, the weather in Los Cabos does vary by season, although it is predictable. It is hot and sunny in the summer and can be fairly cool and windy in the winter; however, it is usually warm enough for water sports year-round and the average temperature throughout the year is 75º F. With 300 days of sunshine annually, there isn’t much rain, and any rain usually comes during the month of September. You should consider renting a car here because it is nice to be able to drive between the two towns and to explore The Corridor (taxis are expensive). Note: The coastal highway is not lit at night. DAY TRIPS LAND’S END & LOVE BEACH: Take a boat trip to the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula, where the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez meet. Towering granite monoliths lie along the coast, including the most dramatic and famous, El Arco, a rock arch that has been carved by the waves over millions of years. The Arch is a marine refuge for hundreds of species of fish. One can often spot dolphins, sea lions, and whales (in the winter). Land’s End is also a popular dive spot with underwater canyons, believed to be as deep as the Grand Canyon, and famous sandfalls or cascades, discovered by Jacques Cousteau. Diving is unpredictable given the weather and rough seas. Bring plenty of film. Many tours will also drop you off at Playa del Amor (Love Beach) where you can picnic and choose between swimming in the cool waters of the Pacific or the calm, clear waters of the Sea of Cortez.LA PAZ: Located 183 kilometers north of Cabo San Lucas, La Paz, where Cortés landed in 1535, means “peace” and this port town does indeed have a peaceful feel. A rather large city with 200,000 inhabitants, La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur, with a library, anthropology museum, and a theater with performances by local and visiting artists. All of the action and tourist attractions run along the main street, Obregón, where you find restaurants, boutiques, and hotels. There is a relaxed, laid-back, old-fashioned demeanor to the town—a far cry from the trendy upscale ambiance of Los Cabos. Except for a few locals, no one much uses the narrow beach in town: the water does not look too appealing and the beach is not too clean. If you want to swim, on the road to the port where the ferries and freighters arrive, there are a few inviting coves wrapped by cactus-studded hills where the water is clear. However, most people come to La Paz for sport fishing, which is world-famous, or to take a ferry to the mainland. TODOS SANTOS: If you want a side excursion, it is fun to take a trip to the quaint town of Todos Santos, an artists’ colony located on the west coast about 70 kilometers north of Cabo San Lucas. This tiny town, dating back to the 1800s, exudes a Colonial ambiance with its central plaza, narrow cobbled streets, and whitewashed houses enhanced by rustic tiled roofs. Many expatriates, including many artists, have discovered the charm of this small town off the beaten path, and have settled here to open appealing boutiques, excellent restaurants, art galleries, and a few hotels. The town is located a bit inland from the ocean, but nearby you find beautiful secluded beaches. However, swimming is frequently treacherous due to pounding surf and strong undertows. If you want to come for a few nights, instead of making Todos Santos just a day trip, we recommend two hotels here, Todos Santos Inn in the heart of town, and Posada La Poza just a few kilometers from town on a coastal nature reserve. WHALE-WATCHING: Between January and March, the gray and humpback whales are frequently seen along the coast of Baja. At this time, many tour operators offer excursions out to see these majestic creatures. However, if you prefer a more in-depth experience and want to see many more whales, you need to go to the calm lagoons farther north where the gray whales come each winter to have their babies.