Arles

The skyline of Arles can be seen as you approach the city. Abounding in character, this is a truly lovely city whose growth is governed by the banks and curves of the Rhône. It has fierce ties to its Roman past when it thrived as a strong port city and gateway. Arles is glorified because of its magnificent Gallo-Roman arenas and theaters in the heart of the old city. This is a city to explore on foot: it is fun to wander through the narrow maze of winding streets that weave through the old section. Bullfights and festivals are still staged in the magnificent Amphithéâtre, or arena, able to accommodate in its prime more than 20,000 spectators. (Open Jun to Sep all day, Oct to May seasonal hours.) The Théâtre Antique, although apparently a ruin by day, becomes a lovely stage on summer nights under the soft lights of the Festival d’Arles. (Same hours as the Amphithéâtre.) The Place du Forum is bordered by cafés and is a social spot to settle in the afternoons and into the balmy evenings of Provence. Just a block from the Place du Forum, the Muséon Arlaten was conceived and funded by the town’s poet, Frédéric Mistral, from the money he received for winning the Nobel Prize in literature, to honor all that is Provençal. The museum is rich in its portrayal of the culture and fierce traditions of Provence. (Closed noon to 2 pm and all day Mon in winter.) Another fascinating museum in Arles is the Musée de l’Arles Antique, just south of the Nouveau Pont, which you can reach by walking along the ramparts on the edge of the Rhône. Large and open, the museum houses a dramatic display of sarcophagi, mosaics, statuary, models, and replicas depicting the dramatic arenas and theaters, as well as jewelry, tools, and pottery that lend a glimpse of life in ancient Arles. It is built on a site overlooking the ruins of the Roman hippodrome and from the rooftop of the museum you can see the outline of the track, which in time they hope to restore to its original dimensions. (Open Apr to Oct, 9 am to 7 pm daily; rest of year 10 am to 6 pm, closed Tues.) At the gateway to the Camargue and nestled at the heart of Provence, Arles is a wonderful base from which to experience the region.