Czech Republic - Czech Republic
Cesky Krumlov
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Český Krumlov, is (in our opinion) one of the most stunning towns in all of Europe, and easily accessible—only about a two-hour drive north of Linz. If you can squeeze in time for a visit, we heartily recommend doing so. Note: Český Krumlov is so chock full of tourists in July and August that, if this is your time for travel, you might want to delay this excursion for another trip. Pacing: We recommend a minimum of four nights for this side trip in order to give you two full days in Český Krumlov and another day for sightseeing in the countryside. Entry into the Czech Republic: It used to be that the majority of tourists visiting the Czech Republic took a train from Vienna (Austria) or Weimar (Germany) since few agencies would rent a car going into any country that previously was a part of the Eastern Bloc. However, that has now changed. Auto Europe (whom we highly recommend for car rentals: 800-223-5555) tells us that entering the country by car is no longer a problem. However, you need to mention to whatever car rental company you choose that you plan to go into the Czech Republic, since a few restrictions still apply, such as you might not be able to rent a specific make of a car. In addition, there is usually an additional premium for any car going into a country that used to be a part of the Eastern Bloc. Beginning your adventure: Linz, which is about midway between Salzburg and your next destination, Dürnstein, makes the perfect place to begin your side trip. When you reach Linz, exit the A1 and go north on the A7. Travel through the city and continue approximately 15 kilometers to where the four-lane highway ends. At that point, continue north on road 125 to Freistadt, a very attractive medieval town complete with stone walls, towers, and even a moat. If it is lunchtime, head into the colorful central square where you will find an assortment of restaurants. From Freistadt it is only 18 kilometers to the border of the Czech Republic. Have your passport and car documents available. The customs formality is simple; however, you will need to purchase a motorway toll sticker for the window of your car. It is not excessively expensive—the price varies depending upon how long you will be in the country. Stickers are available for 15 days, 2 months, or a year. Continue north for about 10 kilometers. When you come to Kaplice, turn west on a road that weaves through a gorgeous, pristine countryside, going by the towns of Omlenička, Zahrádka, and Přídolí before arriving in Český Krumlov. Český Krumlov is quite tricky to drive into and many of the alley-like roads are so narrow you can almost stretch out your arms and touch the walls on either side of your car. When you arrive, follow signs to the town center. Although it is a pedestrian area, you can cautiously maneuver your car through the narrow streets for the brief time needed to unload your luggage before parking. If you prefer to park and find your hotel on foot, as you arrive into town look for signs to Parking #3, which has overnight parking and is the most convenient choice for hotels that are located within the historic center. From the parking lot, it is about a 10-minute walk along a delightful path that traces the river’s edge. To your right, St. Vitus Church looms high on the bluffs overlooking the river, and to your left is a pretty park. When you reach the bridge, cross over it and you are in the heart of the village. All of the hotels are nearby. Český Krumlov (designated a UNESCO monument) is truly an exquisite jewel. There are many picturesque places in Europe, but none can surpass this one. The setting is extraordinary and you will love it. The village is almost totally wrapped by the Vltava River, which loops around the town forming an island—with only a thread of land connecting it to the “mainland.” To further the enchantment, there are no modern buildings or jarring architecture to dim the delight of this untainted medieval beauty. Most of the houses are now brightly painted and have been restored and brought back to life. Only a few buildings have not yet been renovated, providing a gentle reminder of how poorly maintained most of the Czech Republic was during the time it was a part of the Eastern Bloc. Sightseeing in town: Just strolling through the maze of small cobblestone lanes of Český Krumlov is a joy. Before beginning any formal sightseeing, wander at random through the town to get a feeling of its many treasures. Be sure to stop at the picturesque Svornosti Square, where you will find the tourist office. Here you can get a map and will find all the information on special events taking place, location of museums, and tours. You can book tours here and buy tickets for any concerts or special events. There is so much to see and do in the town that it will take a minimum of two days. Following are some suggestions on what to see and do. Old Town Tour: We highly recommend to first take this walking tour, which is an excellent introduction to the colorful history of Český Krumlov. As you stroll through the labyrinth of its cobbled medieval streets, your guide will tell romantic tales of yesteryear, take you to hidden nooks you might not find on your own, and point out the location of museums and other places you will later want to explore on your own. (April through October, English-speaking tour leaves 2:00 pm from the tourist office, duration 90 minutes.) Brewing History Tour: Český Krumlov has always been an important beer-producing town, and still has its own local brewery. This walking tour gives a hint of what life was like for both nobility and ordinary people in medieval times and why beer was so popular. (April through October, English-speaking tour leaves 12:30 pm from the tourist office, duration 60 minutes.) Night Tour: This walking tour explores the legends, ghosts, mysteries and love stories of Český Krumlov. It includes a visit to an ancient gothic house and admission to an exhibit of marionettes from the National Museum of Prague. (May through October, English-speaking tour begins 8:30 pm in front of the Fairy Tale House on Radiční Street, duration 90 minutes.) Eggenberg Brewery: For beer enthusiasts, a tour of the Eggenberg Brewery, which produces dark lagers plus a yeasty, unfiltered beer, is well worthwhile and, best of all, beer sampling is included. (Tours begin at the brewery at 11:00 am, duration 45 minutes.) Raft Tour: On the banks of the Vltava River, just below the town, you can board a wooden raft crafted in the ancient style for a boat tour. As the raft loops around the city it provides many beautiful views from a different perspective. To add to the fun, your guide will entertain you with tales of days of yore. (May through October, information and tickets available at the tourist office, duration 60 minutes.) Graphite Mine: The Český Krumlov Graphite Mine is located on the outskirts of town. This tour is especially fun for children (and adults who are still a child inside). You don special clothing (including shoes) and a helmet with miner’s lamp attached before descending to the bowels of the earth with your guide to learn about how the graphite has been mined here since the 18th century. (July & August: 9:00 am to 5:00 pm; April, June, September & October: tours by arrangement; tel: (380) 711.199, website: www.grafitovydul.cz, email: grafitovydul@quick.cz. Marionette Museum: Housed in the former church of St. Jošt, the Marionette Museum features an exhibit of antique marionettes and a replica of the Baroque Theater in the Český Krumlov Castle. The Fairy Tale House: Here you will find an awesome exhibit with hundreds of precious puppets in all sizes and shapes from the National Museum in Prague. The display is very inclusive with all kinds of puppets from peasants to warriors. Also of interest is a fantastic mechanical puppet theater (it even has a miniature ferris wheel) brought here from the Cačina Castle. If you are lucky, there might be a puppet show in the courtyard. (May through October: 10 am to 10 pm.) Museum of Torture: Located on the square near the tourist office, the Museum of Torture is a must of you are traveling with little boys—they will relish the gruesome displays of medieval instruments of torture. It is all a bit contrived, but certainly interesting. (Open all year, 9 am to 8 pm.) Wax Museum: Located in one of Český Krumlov’s picturesque old houses, the wax museum depicts skillfully crafted wax figures that are cleverly displayed in various scenes appropriate to the featured personalities. Dimly lit staircases lead up and down through the house, adding to the drama. Not only figures from the Czech past are shown, but also other cultural personalities such as Louis Armstrong and Charlie Chaplin. (Open all year, 9 am to 8 pm.) St. Vitus church: The spire of beautiful St. Vitus church (which dates back to the 15th century) stretches into the sky, making it easy to spot from anywhere in town. There are no tours, but you can visit the church on your own. Krumlov Castle: If you see nothing else in Český Krumlov, you must visit the amazing Krumlov Castle (the second largest in the Czech Republic). There is no way you can miss it since the castle, which consists of an endless row of attached buildings, stretches across a lofty ridge overlooking the town from across the river. It is huge, stretching over a kilometer along the bluff. Dominating the scene is a dramatic bell tower that rises in a series of whimsically painted tiers, the final one being an ornate, open-air viewing arcade under a steeple topped by a jaunty flag. Buy your tickets as soon as possible upon arriving in Český Krumlov since Krumlov Castle is a highlight. Tickets are necessary since you cannot tour independently but need to take a guided tour. Also, the number of English-speaking tours is limited and space is sometimes sold out. (April, May, September, October: 9 am to 5 pm; June July & August: 9 am to 6 pm, closed on Mondays.) Krumlov castle is so vast that the tours are broken down into the following: Tour 1: This tour is a very good overview of the castle, visiting the Renaissance Chambers, the incredible Golden Carriage (which was only used once), and the Masquerade Hall. (Tour originates in the third courtyard, duration 60 minutes.) Tour 2: This tour includes a visit to the Schwarzenbergs’ 19th-century Chambers. (Tour originates in the third courtyard, duration 60 minutes.) Baroque Theater Tour: This fabulous tour is a favorite and sells out very quickly. The boundless wealth of the nobility who lived in Krumlov Castle in the 17th century is obvious when you see this opulent theater. The only comparable one in the world is the Baroque Theater at Drottningholm Castle, on an island just outside of Stockholm. (Tour originates in the fifth courtyard, duration 45 minutes.) Castle Tower & Castle Gardens: You can visit the Castle Tower (located in the second courtyard) and the beautiful Castle Gardens (located at the far end of the castle) on your own, without tickets or reservations.
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