Podere Le Fornace

Whether sitting by the vineyard under a full moon with champagne, Assisi illuminated in the distance in July 2007, or in front of a roaring fire on a cool evening in May 2010 drinking the owners’ own merlot, LaFornace is the perfect place to spend time in Italy.
Both stays have been with large groups that I have org...

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Whether sitting by the vineyard under a full moon with champagne, Assisi illuminated in the distance in July 2007, or in front of a roaring fire on a cool evening in May 2010 drinking the owners’ own merlot, LaFornace is the perfect place to spend time in Italy.
Both stays have been with large groups that I have organized where we have rented most or all of the apartments. The apartments are configured to suit practically any traveling configuration you may have, from a single couple to families with children. All are charming, wonderfully appointed and reasonably priced.

The location is absolutely unbeatable. You are at the end of a lovely country lane, but very close to the action. You will wake up to what seems to be thousands of birds greeting the day, yet within 5 minutes you can be on a train, (2 hours), to Florence. Amazing Assisi is right up the hill, Perugia, one of my favorite cities in all of Italy, is 15 minutes away, Gubbio can be reached via a lovely drive through the rolling hills of ’Green Umbria’. Tuscany with all of its beauty and charm is just a short drive away. Go to Norcia and Casteluccio if you want to have a totally unique Umbrian experience -- about 1 1/2 hours south. You’re near Spoleto, Todi, Orvieto. If shopping is what you’re interested in, DeRuta pottery is about 20 minutes from LaFornace and there are also cashmere outlets, etc., etc. One of the top rated restaurants in the world is in Bevagna, on the plain about 20 minutes south. Just up the hill is the delightful Locanda dell’Angelo where you can sit outside, weather permitting, and be served a fabulous meal cooked just for you. If it’s too chilly, sit inside what was the old barn and have your dinner by candlelight.

The staff and service are terrific. If you’re lucky enough to be there when Bianca and Fabrizio are there you’re in for a treat. They are wonderful, welcoming owners. The ’ever in motion’ Ambra will see to it that you are well taken care of. There are local places to eat, from casual pizza to fancy in Bevagna, but you might also want to cook if you have one of the apartments with a bigger kitchen and if you have a group you can arrange for a cook to prepare your meals. Bruno Abatti has been our chef on both trips and he’s been terrific, preparing light meals for us in the evenings as well as quite sumptuous welcoming dinners. If privately led tours of the sites of Umbria are of interest, these can be arranged with a local guide, Rosella, who is fabulous. I would recommend that anyone do a tour of Assisi with her. You will discover an Assisi that would be impossible to see on your own.

I have no hesitation recommending LaFornace to anyone who wants to explore the central part of Italy. Whether this is your first trip to the area and/or Italy or you’ve been there many times. Umbria is beautiful. It’s a bit more rustic than Tuscany, but doesn’t have the tourists nor the prices. While we have stayed there with groups of friends, I have recommended LaFornace to those traveling independently as well. All have enjoyed it. It truly has the feeling of a home away from home and is a lovely place to return to in the evening after a day out exploring.

One word of advice, you must have a car. While LaFornace is in no way remote, it is not the type of place that you can stay if you plan on exploring on foot or with public transportation. (The train station in Bastia is 5 minutes away by car.) We have always picked up our car at the Rome airport and driven the 2.5 hours north. Cars are also available at the Assisi (San Egidio) Airport and in Perugia.

Enjoy!