Le Traverse

The most striking images of southern Tuscany are in the Orcia Valley—enchanting landscapes with soft, rolling hills topped with rows of cypress trees silhouetted against the sky. This alternating with the area called Le Crete Senesi—barren hills made of clay and resembling moon craters—makes for fascinating scenery. Le Traverse, at 3 kilometers from Pienza, is submersed in this peaceful countryside to which your gracious hosts, Pinuccia and Enrico, retired from Milan. Their charming home has been very tastefully restored and all the right touches (such as terry bathrobes and the finest-quality bed linens) added to make guests feel right at home. The stone farmhouse with front courtyard is divided between the couple’s own quarters, rooms for their visiting children, and two apartments for guests with independent entrance. The other two bedrooms are situated in the one-level converted barn nearby and are enhanced with the family’s country antiques and prints. Huge terracotta vases overflowing with geraniums, trailing roses, and azalea plants dot the 50-acre property, which includes a swimming pool. Olive oil is produced as well as jams using homegrown fruit. The intimacy of the place with its four rooms makes you feel like a true house guest and the area is full of delightful day trips.