Lopez Island

On to Lopez Island, at one time referred to as “the Guernsey Island” for its exports of cream, eggs, and poultry. While most of the dairy farms have disappeared, Lopez is still very much agricultural in feel. Home to craftspeople, musicians, farmers, fishers, nature lovers, and eccentrics, Lopez maintains its long-standing custom of waving to passersby. Wander the rural roads in peace and quiet, where woods mix with farmland and tranquil water vistas. The island covers an area of less than 30 square miles and its population numbers only about 2,100. Visitors come to Lopez not for action, but to kayak, to bicycle (the terrain is pretty flat), or to wander back roads and scan the rugged coastlines in search of wildlife. It is possible to rent bikes and kayaks locally. The tiny village of Lopez, just 4 miles south of the ferry landing on Weeks Road, provides the only sign of commercial life with a few shops, a bakery, and restaurants. The humble Lopez Historical Museum in the village chronicles Indian and pioneer life on the island over the years (call for hours: 360-468-2049). At Shark Reef Sanctuary (Shark Reef and Burt Roads to the southwest), a 1/5-mile trail through thick, old-growth forest, leads to dramatic cliffs for some excellent island and marine-life views. Visit Lopez Island Vineyards (724 Fisherman Bay Road; call for hours: 360-468-3644), San Juan County’s oldest winery, producing organically grown grapes and fine wines. Agate Beach is a tiny, pebble-strewn cove well suited to taking a sunset stroll.