Mount St. Helens

Only 40,000 years old, Mount St. Helens is the baby of the southern Cascade volcano family in an area where all the peaks are seismically active. On May 18, 1980, following two months of small earthquakes and relatively mild eruptions, one particular trembler loosened much of the north flank of this mountain. An avalanche ensued, after which a huge blast cloud roared out of the crater, outracing the avalanche as it reached speeds of up to 600 mph. A hot, stone-filled wind knocked down immense forests in its path, creating a litter of fallen trees in a “blowdown zone” still visible today. This initial destruction took only five minutes; but for nine hours afterward, a column of ash spewed 15 miles high from the crater, obscuring eastern Washington. Melted glaciers created mudflows and severe flooding, 57 people were suddenly dead or missing, and Mount St. Helens had dropped in elevation by 1,300 feet. This is something you should see. From Portland, take I-5 north 50 miles to Exit 49/Hwy 504. Known as the Spirit Lake Memorial Highway, 504 was constructed between 1992 and 1995. It’s about 48 miles long and guides you, more or less, alongside the path of destruction, all the way to the volcano itself. The blowdown zone is perhaps one of the most awe-inspiring sights, where trees still lie scattered like giant toothpicks. Your first stop, however, is about 5 miles east of the freeway exit. Not the giant blue building just off the freeway called the Cinedome (misguidedly called the Visitor Center), but rather a park building further down the road called the Mount St. Helens Visitor Center. It provides an excellent introduction to the area, with many marvelous exhibits and a slide presentation. We recommend you pay for the pass that gives you unrestricted access to all the centers along the route to the volcano. From the Visitor Center, continue along 504 and stop at any, or all, of the additional visitor centers you might be interested in. The Charles W. Bingham Forest Learning Center concentrates on the life cycle of area forests and features an impressive elk-viewing area with great views, while the Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center focuses on the recovery of the surroundings and the new lakes that were formed by the eruption. Rangers give brief lectures on related topics. The “must see” is the Johnston Ridge Observatory, only 5 miles from the volcano. Named for a geologist who lost his life in the final blast, the observatory offers an amazing view of Mount St. Helens and a 15-minute film called A Message from the Mountain, which will stop you in your tracks. For a closer look at the volcano, you can take a helicopter tour to the crater or walk along several trails, one of the more dramatic ones beginning at the Johnston Ridge Observatory.