Willamette Valley Wine Region

Note: If you plan to sample the wines of the Willamette Valley along this route, please select or hire a designated driver. Running from Oregon’s northern border at the Columbia River to the Calapooya Mountains just south of Eugene, the Willamette Valley in its entirety is about 200 miles long and 60 miles wide. Sheltered between the Coast Range Mountains to the west and the Cascade Mountains to the east, it is a rich patchwork of prairies, grasslands, forests, orchards, and vineyards. Here the growing season is long and the harvest late (end of September, early October), both conditions serving to intensify the varietal flavors of the grapes. Nearly two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries reside in the upper half of the Willamette Valley just southwest of Portland in Yamhill County. Known as the “heart of the wine country,” this area is blessed with three chains of interlocking hills, all created by millions of years of volcanic activity. It is on the southern and southwestern slopes of these hills that most of the vineyards are planted—ideal spots for grape growing and for Pinot Noirs in particular. Yamhill County is home to dozens of marvelous tasting rooms set in gorgeously picturesque landscapes. We’ll take you to some of the best. From Portland, take I-5 South/Salem to Hwy 99W/Tigard/Newberg (Exit 294). Standard blue winery signs all along Hwy 99W (“The Wine Road”) will help you anticipate turns into the vineyards you want to see. Call ahead to confirm hours of operation. Don’t despair at the sight of so many strip malls along the first portion of The Wine Road. We’ll get you out of them! About 13 miles after you exit I-5, just north of Newberg’s town center and on the right, your first stop is Rex Hill Vineyard. Enter a small, elegant building and take your place at an attractive tasting bar. Enjoy the fireplace, the gift shop, the tiny Oregon Wine Brotherhood Museum, or the lovely terraced gardens and picnic area. Established in 1982, Rex Hill is known first for its Pinot Noirs, but also produces top-quality Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and White Riesling. (30835 North Hwy 99W; open from 11 am to 5 pm, daily with extended summer hours; 503-538-0666.) Note: See Springbrook Hazelnut Farm as a recommended place to stay—you can walk through hazelnut orchards to Rex Hill from the inn. Leaving Rex Hill, turn right on Hwy 99W and continue south for about 5 miles to the town of Dundee. Stop to visit Argyle on your left, which makes its home in a charming, two-story farmhouse built in 1900. Argyle owns 235 acres of prime Willamette Valley vineyard land. It is internationally recognized as a premier producer of New World (methode champenoise) sparkling wines; but also produces Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and an “old vine” dry Riesling you may want to try. (6901 Hwy 99; open from 11 am to 5 pm, daily; 503-538-8520; www.argylewinery.com.) Right across the street is the handsome Ponzi Wine Bar. In addition to featuring the wines of Ponzi Vineyards, the bar presents wines from local producers that don’t have tasting rooms and from those in remote areas of the state. You can buy wines by the glass, bottle, or case. Microbrews on draft, Italian coffee, and a selection of cheeses and fresh breads await you, as does a fine selection of wine-themed books. (100 SW 7th Street; open daily from 11 am to 5 pm; 503-554-1500; www.ponziwines.com.) The excellent Dundee Bistro, also owned by the Ponzi family, is located right next door for those who want a bite to eat. Leaving Ponzi, continue on 99W and take a right on SW 9th Street and wind your way uphill. Suddenly, the terrain is everything you’ve been hearing about: the rolling hills, the lovely orchards, rows of vines heavy with fruit. As 9th Street becomes Worden Hill, turn right on Fairview Drive. The road turns to gravel and wends through a forested wilderness to Torii Mor on your right. This tasting room is surrounded by a beautiful Japanese garden and boasts stellar views of Olson Vineyard, one of Yamhill County’s oldest vineyards. Pinot Noir makes up the bulk of the winery’s production, but most are hard-to-come-by reserves and single bottlings. (18325 NE Fairview Drive; open from noon to 5 pm; Saturday and Sunday, February to April; Friday to Sunday, May to November; 800-839-5004; www.toriimorwinery.com.) Leaving Torii Mor, head back to Fairview and turn right out of the drive. Continue past the “Private Road” signage and turn right again at the signs for Lange Winery. Enjoy a glass of wine on the back patio, where spectacular views of the Chehalem and Willamette Valleys will make you forget all your troubles. (18380 NE Buena Vista Drive; open from 11 am to 5 pm, every day except Tuesday; 503-538-6476; www.langewinery.com.) From Lange, turn left onto Fairview to retrace your steps, but only for a few hundred yards, turning right at the first unmarked road (it’s actually still Fairview). Drive slowly and enjoy the quiet. Turn left on Worden Hill Road, then right onto the Erath Vineyards Winery property, where once again you’ll be treated to stunning views in all directions from high in these beautiful Dundee Hills. Wonderful cheeses, crackers, and other fine comestibles are available in the homey tasting room. (9409 NE Worden Hill Road; open from 11 am to 5 pm daily; 503-538-3318 or 800-539-9463; www.erath.com.) Leaving Erath, turn right on Worden Hill, which becomes SW 9th Street. Enjoy the gorgeous orchards and vineyards as you head back to the town of Dundee. Unless you’re ready to turn back to Portland, make a right onto Hwy 99W and continue south. In the town of Lafayette turn right on Mineral Springs Road, following the signs to Chateau Benoit. This spectacular hilltop winery is designed like a French chateau and offers panoramic views of Yamhill County. Founded in 1972, it features a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, rich Pinot Noirs, barrel-fermented Chardonnay, and a dry White Riesling, to name but a few. (6580 NE Mineral Springs Road; open from 10 am to 5 pm daily; 503-864-2991; www.chateaubenoit.com.) Leaving Chateau Benoit, turn left to return to 99W and turn right on 99W toward McMinnville. From here, if you’ve had enough, you can turn right on 47 North to loop back to Portland, or venture bravely past the strip malls and turn left on NE 3rd Street to the historic downtown district of McMinnville. The town has two claims to fame: the UFO sighting of May 10, 1950 (stop in at the pub inside McMenamins Hotel to check out the UFO articles) and the Evergreen Aviation Museum. Just southeast of McMinnville via 99W South, directly off Hwy 18 (watch for the signs), this aviation museum houses an impressive collection of vintage aircraft. The centerpiece of this collection is the Hughes HK-1 Flying Boat, the Spruce Goose, now making its permanent home here. The Spruce Goose, completed in 1947 by famed billionaire/eccentric/aviator Howard Hughes is the largest airplane ever built, with a wingspan of 320 feet! The entire museum—made largely of glass—was built specifically to house this amazing giant. Also on display beneath the soaring wings of the Goose are several fully restored classic airplanes and jets. See a replica of the Wright brothers’ 1903 Flyer, several WWII-era fighters and trainers (a P-38 Lightning, a P-51D Mustang, a Supermarine Spitfire, a Messerschmitt Bf 109G-10), as well as Korean War-era jets (a MiG-15 Midget). This museum is a must-see for any aviation buff. (3685 NE Three Mile Lane; open from 9 am to 5 pm, daily except holidays.) Return to 99W South as you leave the McMinnville area and continue for about 5 miles in the direction of Amity. Turn right at Fifth (the Bellevue Highway) then after about 2 miles the road will veer to the right at a sign reading Bellevue/Sheridan. Here’s where you have the opportunity to visit a monastery founded by the Swedish Saint Brigit in 1370. It’s the only Brigittine (say BRIDGE ih teen) monastery for men left in the world. Guests are welcome, so if you’re up for the adventure (and perhaps in the market for some unbelievable homemade fudge), drive straight ahead—rather than veering right—onto Broadmead Road, and continue one additional mile to a sign on your right directing you down a gravel road to the Brigittine Priory of Our Lady of Consolation. (If you are not interested in the monastery, just veer right and continue on.) These monks make their own fudge right on these lovely grounds and it’s fabulous! Ring the bell, if the door is locked (don’t be shy!). One of the monks will greet you, offer you chocolate samples, and direct you to boxes for sale: chocolate cherry nut fudge, pecan praline fudge royale, chocolate amaretto truffles, chocolate butter rum truffles—You won’t believe the list! Guests are welcome to visit the unusual chapel. (Brigittine Monks Gourmet Confections, 23300 Walker Lane, Amity; 503-835-8080.) Leaving the monastery, return to the Bellevue Highway, which dead ends at Highway 18. At this T-junction, you are looking across the road to the Lawrence Gallery and the Oregon Wine Tasting Room. This is Oregon’s oldest tasting room, and it’s stocked with some 100 or so wines from vineyards all across the state. (19706 SW Highway 18; open from 11:30 am to 5:30 pm daily; 503-843-3787.) After a browse through it, take Hwy 18 back to 99W North/McMinnville. As you’re heading out of McMinnville, turn left onto 47 North/Carlton. Pass through Carlton and follow the signs for 47/Yamhill/Forest Grove as it zigzags you through town. Once in Gaston, turn left on Olson Road to Elk Cove Vineyards, whose beautiful setting is alone worth the trip. Here, winemaker Adam Campbell produces single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Dijon-clone Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, and highly popular dessert wines. (27751 NW Olson Road; open from 11 am to 5 pm daily; 503-985-7760.) Leaving Elk Cove, resume your former course on 47 North. The road will make a left turn. Just follow signs to Hwy 8; further on 8, take east City Center/Portland all the way back to the city.