Palacio Nacional

The enormous National Palace dominates one side of the Plaza of the Constitution. This is the site where Montezuma had his palace, which was later replaced by the residence of Hernán Cortés. Continuing its heritage, the magnificent structure is today the president’s residence. Much of the building is used for government business, but you must go in to view Diego Rivera’s stunning murals depicting the history of Mexico. Obviously Rivera had his personal opinion of the struggle of the Indians against the conquistadors, for throughout his murals the cruelty of the Spaniards is clearly embellished. The fact that long before Cortés arrived, human sacrifice, slavery, and brutality were prevalent is lightly downplayed. However, the paintings are even more intriguing because of Diego Rivera’s prejudices and his sense of humor in depicting them. You are apt to miss a lot if you don’t know what you are seeing, so try to have a guide or do a little reading in advance. Diego’s murals depict the faces of real people and those he didn’t like received their due at the end of his paintbrush. It is almost like a puzzle to figure out who everyone is. Look carefully and you will see Cortés’s mistress, La Malinche, who is often at his side, sometimes holding their son.