Dolomites

From Asolo, you head north to one of the most stunning regions of Italy, the Dolomites—breath-taking mountains. It is important to have a very detailed map of the region because this is a confusing area for driving. Adding to the confusion of finding your way is the fact that most of the towns have two names: one Italian and one German. Before World War I this section of Italy belonged to the Austrian Empire, and most of the towns have retained their original names along with their new ones. The food is a mixture of Italian and German—strudel is the favorite dessert and ravioli stuffed with meat, vegetables, and cream cheese is called either ravioletti or schulpfkrapfeln. There are various routes for driving north into the Dolomites. The major highway heads north through Feltre and Belluno and then goes on to Cortina d’Ampezzo. However, if the day is nice and your spirit of adventure high, there is really nothing more fun than taking the back roads through the mountains. Journey through tiny hamlets and gorgeous mountain valleys far from the normal tourist path—always keeping a map accessible so that you don’t wind up hopelessly lost. You might want to travel casually and stop in a village that captures your heart as you drive through the picturesque Dolomite valleys. A good base for exploring the region is Corvara, a small village ringed by breathtaking mountains. Another excellent choice is Cortina d’Ampezzo, a tourist center that is larger due to its excellent skiing facilities. Its location is truly breathtaking—the town spreads across a sunny meadow ringed by gigantic granite peaks. Although the true allure of Cortina is its beauty, there are a few other attractions—the lovely frescoes in the Romanesque Church of SS Filippo e Giacomo; the stadium where the 1956 Olympic ice-skating competition was held; and the Museo Ciasa de Ra Regoles with its geological display and contemporary art exhibition. This is a mountain lovers’ area where the roads are slow and winding. The scenery is beautiful, with green valleys dominated by the stark mountain walls, but the driving is hard, with lots of hairpin bends. Many routes are spectacular. The 48 and 241 from Cortina to Bolzano form the stupendous Great Dolomite Road (Grande Strada delle Dolomiti). Another lovely route runs through the Alpe di Siusi, high Alpine meadowlands beneath towering mountains. (From the Verona-Brennero autostrada exit at Bolzano Nord and follow a route through Völs [Fiè allo Sciliar], Siusi, and Castelrotto.) It continues on into the Val Gardena (Grödner Tal) to Ortisei (Sankt Ulrich) and up to the Sella Pass. We enjoyed a sensational 50-kilometer drive over four mountain passes that ring the Gruppo Sella mountain group—from Corvara we took the Gardena Pass, the Sella Pass, the Podoi Pass, and the Campolongo Pass, which returned us to Corvara. The only relaxing (albeit strenuous) way to truly appreciate the Dolomites is to get out of your car and walk the well-marked trails that feather out into the hills. Cable cars and ski lifts run in summer and are excellent ways to assist the walker to higher altitudes. At gift shops or tourist offices you can purchase detailed hiking maps that show every little path.