Ring of Kerry

The drive round the Iveragh Peninsula is, in my opinion, somewhat overrated, but if you want to see the much-publicized Ring of Kerry, hope that the fickle Irish weather is at its best. For when mists wreathe the Ring, it takes a lot of imagination to conjure up seascapes as you drive down fog-shrouded lanes. Even if the weather is dull, do not lose heart because at any moment the sun could break through. Driving the Ring can be a trial during the busy summer months when the roads are choked with tourist coaches, but your trip will be more enjoyable if you take advantage of some local knowledge before starting your journey. The coaches leave Killarney between 10 and 11 am and travel around the Ring in a counterclockwise direction, arriving back in Killarney by 5 pm. I prefer to meet the coaches head on (see below) rather than inhale their exhaust fumes and suggest an early start to meet them later in the day. If you prefer to avoid them totally: make an early start, travel counterclockwise, and make certain that you are beyond Killarney before 9:30 am. Beginning the Ring, a pleasant drive takes you along the Kenmare river estuary and you get tempting glimpses of water and the Beara Peninsula. Arriving at Sneem, enjoy the most picturesque village on the Ring, with its tiny, gaily painted houses bordering two village greens. (The most beautiful coastal scenery lies between Sneem and Waterville.) Continuing your journey westward you come to Caherdaniel village where you turn left for Derrynane House, the home of Daniel O’Connell, “The Liberator,” a title he earned for winning Catholic emancipation. If the weather is inclement, concentrate on the house with its furnished rooms, audio-visual presentation, museum, and tearooms. But if the weather is fine, spend your time outdoors walking along the sandy beach of Derrynane Bay and crossing the narrow strip of sand that separates the mainland from Abbey Island where St. Fionan founded a monastic order over 1,000 years ago. Just round the point lies Iskeroon and Bunavalla pier where boats leave for the Skellig Islands. A panoramic view of Derrynane Bay can be enjoyed form the Scariff Inn—you cannot miss the landmark bright-red pub sitting beside the road 3 kilometers above the seashore. Cresting the Coomakesta Pass, you turn north for Waterville, an aptly named town surrounded by water. Its main street with several colorfully painted houses is built along the shore. From here a pleasant drive takes you to Cahersiveen, a classic Irish town with a long main street made up of shops and pubs. Onwards you go to Killorglin and then to Killarney and back to Kenmare. However, our suggested route for your return to Kenmare is to take a right-hand turn to Caragh Lake (5 kilometers before your reach Killorglin) and follow the narrow lanes around this beautiful lake and across the rugged Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (Ireland’s highest mountains) to Blackwater Bridge (on the Ring) and Kenmare—a trip to be undertaken only on a clear day.