Beara Peninsula

If you do not stop along the way, it will take you between two and three hours to drive the Beara Peninsula, where the scenery is wild, but gorgeous. From Kenmare, a minor road (R571) takes you along the north shore of the peninsula to Ardgroom, a picturesque village nestled beside a little harbor at the foot of the mountains. Farther west, Eyeries village looks out over the Skellig Rocks and several rocky inlets. Behind the village, the mountain road rises up through the Pass of Boffickle for a fantastic view back over the bay. In the 19th century, Allihies was a center of the copper mining industry, but now it is a resort with a magnificent beach curving along the bay. At the most westerly point of the peninsula lies Garinish, where a cable car takes visitors over to Dursey Island. Dursey is a long, mountain island encircled by high cliffs. Offshore are several other islands, the most interesting of which is Bull Rock, a roosting place for gannets. A cave passes right through it, creating a massive rock arch. Skirting the southern shore of the peninsula, the narrow road hugs the ocean through Castletownbere and Adrigole, from where you can follow the coastal road into Glengarriff or take the opportunity for a spectacular view by turning left and ascending the Healy Pass. It’s hard to turn and admire the vista of Bantry Bay as the road gently zigzags up the pass, so stop at the top to relish the view before continuing down to Lauraugh, where you turn right for Kenmare.