Church of St. John the Baptist

The largest and most famous of all Basque churches is the Church of St. John the Baptist. It is located in St. Jean de Luz. The town of Saint Jean de Luz is separated by a bridge and the mouth of the River Nivelle from the equally picturesque town of Ciboure. With its lovely expanse of beach, sheltered harbor, grassy beach promenade, distinctive regional architecture, quaint town square, outdoor cafés, and local artists, it is easy to understand the enduring popularity of this enchanting town. To complement its beauty it also has a rich and colorful history—the lavish homes are evidence of the wealth acquired by whalers-turned-pirates (the French—corsaires—sounds more dignified!) who sailed under the blessing of the French King. The town reached its peak of dignity and glory in 1660 with the arranged political union of Louis XIV of France and Marie-Thérèse of Spain. Still standing on either side of the town’s main square are the two houses where they each awaited their marriage. (The Louis XIV House can be visited in summer months.) It is also possible and very interesting to visit the Church of St. John the Baptist, whose doorway was walled up immediately after the couple’s departure so that no one else could cross the royal threshold. The interior is worth a visit for its simple architecture, high altar, and classic wooden Basque balconies. Although a popular tourist town, Saint Jean de Luz still has an active fishing industry, with anchovies, tuna, and sardines playing a vital role in its commercial success.