Pacific Northwest - Washington

San Juan Islands

A Karen Brown Recommendation

CITY, Washington, United States

So much has already been written about the San Juans, that tranquil chain of Washington islands (hundreds of them!) that in fact are the tops of a submerged mountain range. Visitors come here to sail, kayak, bicycle, whale watch, bird watch, nap, and just generally slow down. As many as 40 of the San Juan Islands are said to be inhabited, but only four of them are serviced by commercial ferry. Of these four, only three offer accommodations: San Juan Island, Orcas Island, and Lopez Island. Ah, and what accommodations: some of the best in all of Washington! Ferry Travel: Washington State Ferries make multiple, daily departures to all the islands we cover in this itinerary. These ferries provide inter-island service for vehicles and foot or bicycle passengers alike. Since reservations are not accepted, it is important to arrive at any terminal at least one hour ahead of your scheduled sailing time. Longer waits are possible at peak travel times (e.g., summer and holiday weekends). Local residents are the perfect source for tips on cutting through the mystery that is ferry travel. Your innkeeper can call down to the terminal on the day prior to or the day of your departure, and advise you how early to arrive at the terminal depending on traffic that day. Whatever you do, ask. There’s nothing to spoil your trip faster than arriving at a terminal, only to find that the queue is miles long and the next ferry not scheduled for several more hours! Fare and seasonal schedule information are available from Washington State Ferries. If you’re in Seattle, you can get timetables at their Information Desk, Colman Dock/Pier 52, between 8:15 am and 6 pm weekdays. Otherwise call 206-464-6400 (from anywhere), 511 (automated information, from Washington only), or 888-808-7977 (from Washington only). Or visit www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries. Bicycling: Many visitors venture to the San Juans to bicycle. Lopez, where roads traverse pastoral landscapes and provide sweeping mountain and water views, has relatively flat terrain and is the easiest to tour on two wheels. The village is only about 4 miles from the ferry landing. Orcas is the most challenging, especially for those hardy bodies who brave the 5 vertical miles to the summit of Mount Constitution. Eastsound is located mid-island on Orcas; it’s a good spot for stocking up on water and refreshments. San Juan combines flatlands and hills with a good variety of scenic destinations. Stock up in Friday Harbor or Roche Harbor. Most roads are narrow and winding with shoulders that range from barely adequate to non-existent. Wear a helmet, travel single file in small groups, and pull well out of the way if you need to stop along the road, especially near a ferry landing where traffic is most concentrated. Golf: Private, nine-hole, courses are open to the public for modest green fees. All offer club and cart rentals. Lopez Golf Club 360-468-2679 Orcas Golf Club 360-376-4400 San Juan Golf Club 360-378-2254 Kayaking: If you are kayaking on your own, it’s important to understand the location of ferry and shipping lanes, and the ever-changing tides and currents. Guidelines are available at the Whale Museum in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island (see next page). Whale Watching: Scheduled whale- and wildlife-watching trips are offered from May to October. The Whale Museum, in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island (see next page for details), offers the best information about tours and the resident orca population. You can view a list of Whale Watch Operators Association NW members on their website, www.nwwhalewatchers.org/members.html. Weather Wise: The San Juan Islands get about half the amount of rain that Seattle gets. Summer temperatures range between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. At other times, don sweatshirts and sweaters when temperatures range between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Fall and winter are considered rainy seasons but the sun is often out nonetheless. Ready then? Get a ferry schedule and plot your island hopping anyway you please.

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