Pacific Northwest - Washington

North Cascades Loop

A Karen Brown Recommendation

CITY, Washington, United States

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This spectacular scenic loop can be approached in several different ways. If time is of the essence, we recommend at least the gorgeous, 105-mile drive along Hwy 2 from Seattle, out over the Cascade Mountains, and into the town of Leavenworth for a one- or two-night stay, returning to the city via the same route. In late September/early October, the maples and yellow larches in Tumwater Canyon, just northwest of Leavenworth along this route, will take your breath away. If you can afford the luxury of more time, follow this complete itinerary, which will take you past Leavenworth, guide you north through working fruit orchards, and loop you westward again—weather permitting—through the dramatic North Cascades National Park. Keep in mind that the stretch of Hwy 20 just west of Mazama (between Washington Pass and Rainy Pass) is closed for long periods during winter, spring, and (sometimes) early summer, so be sure to check road conditions before attempting to cross. From Seattle, take Hwy 520 east to I-405 North to Hwy 522 east to Hwy 2 east. The road to Leavenworth is absolutely beautiful. Surrounded by some of the most stunning scenery anywhere in the U.S., this town was once home to the Yakima, Chinook, and Wenatchee Indian tribes. By 1890, the original town was built and settled by pioneers in search of gold, fur, and fertile farmland. At the turn of the 19th century, the Great Northern Railway brought additional prosperity; but it was not to last—the unexpected re-routing of the railroad and the subsequent closure of the area’s sawmill reduced Leavenworth to something of a ghost town. For more than 30 years, it lived on the brink of extinction; then, in the early 1960s, community leaders got the idea to change Leavenworth’s appearance. Inspired by the beautiful backdrop of the surrounding Alpine mountains, the town agreed to remodel their hamlet in the form of a Bavarian village. The entire community rallied to create the illusion of Bavaria in the middle of Washington State! Besides the complete renovation of the downtown area, the town has created a series of festivals that brings tourists from miles around, including the Autumn Leaf Festival, Maifest, and the extremely popular Christmas Lighting Ceremony. While the town itself may well strike you as a bit over the top, give in to it for a day or two—you won’t find a friendlier or more beautiful spot anywhere. Stay at any one of the excellent inns in town and enjoy the spectacular setting. Innkeepers here can recommend stellar, short-distance driving routes (e.g., taking 97 South to Old Blewetts Pass for unparalleled views), great river-rafting trips, and breathtaking hiking trails you won’t want to miss. From Leavenworth, travel east on Hwy 2 in the direction of Wenatchee. The small town of Cashmere, is known for its famous Liberty Orchards-Aplets and Cotlets factory and store (509-782-4088, www.libertyorchards.com), and the outdoor Pioneer Village Museum (509-782-3230) replicating life in the 1800s. It is also home to a wonderful bakery that is most definitely worth a stop for its wonderful baked products, sandwiches and coffees. Anjou Bakery (509-782-4360) is located beyond the entrance to town, on the south side of the highway. A few miles beyond, Cashmere Hwy 2 merges with Hwy 97 which, if you follow north, will take you on to Chelan. If you are a garden buff, you might want to detour just at the merger of the two highways to visit Ohme Gardens. Located high on a rocky bluff, overlooking the confluence of the Columbia and Weneatchee Rivers, this nine-acre garden is a result of one family and 60 years of dedicated landscaping. There are actually two “versions” of the highway that straddle both sides of the river. Alt 97, as opposed to the Hwy2/97, is the more scenic drive and more easily accesses the road to Lake Chelan. This is a region dominated by pear and apple orchards, absolutely gorgeous when colored with spring blossoms or fall foliage; but to be honest, a little barren in winter. Many of the Washington apples you buy in stores come from this very area. Alt 97 will take you directly to Lake Chelan, a 50-mile-long lake in a beautiful valley created by glaciers. Reaching a depth of 1,500 feet, it is one of the deepest lakes in the U.S. Or you can also opt for Hwy 971, referred to as the Navarre Coulee cutoff which is a few miles longer, but crests the hill and affords some wonderful views of the lake. From Lake Chelan, continue north on Hwy 97 to Hwy 153, and then to Hwy 20, traveling in the direction of Winthrop. Spring through fall, Hwy 20 would deliver you back to the coast, but in winter it dead-ends at Washington Pass. With the towering peaks of the Cascades looming in the distance, Hwy 20 travels a picturesque route through a beautiful valley, following the wide sweep of river that cuts it. It is a region populated by large ranches, grazed by cattle and reportedly the source of inspiration for poet and author Owen Wister. He lived in Winthrop back in the early 1900s, and many Winthrop sights and characters appear in his novel The Virginian. Today, this once-busy mining town is little more than a faux Old West façade, with wooden sidewalks and early 20th-century storefronts. You might enjoy the Shafer Museum, though, which re-creates a turn of the century pioneer mining town. Nine buildings (some reproductions, others original and relocated here) offer a glimpse of life in the Cascades more than a hundred years ago. (Castle and Corral Avenues; open May to September, Thursday to Monday, from 10 am to 5 pm.) The North Cascades Highway (Hwy 20) offers a unique opportunity to explore some of the more remote areas of the Cascade Mountains. Some 300 glaciers residing here account for more than half the glaciers in the contiguous United States. Along the way, a number of trailhead markers will beckon you to stop and explore, which is fun to do even if you hike for only short distances. Two mountain passes greet you now. The first is Washington Pass at 5,477 feet. Pull over at the lookout and take the half-mile (round trip) path around a cliff face to see just how far you’ve come! The second is 4,860-foot Rainy Pass. An easy 2-mile (round trip) paved trail at Rainy Pass is perfect if you’re conscious of time or don’t want to do any serious walking. Watch for signs for the Rainy Lake Trail and pull over. The trail will guide you through towering forest to the small, and unbelievably, blue Rainy Lake. Notice how the terrain is changing. These mountain passes mark the rain shadow divide that accounts for one climate in western Washington and another east of the mountains. About 1 mile west of Newhalem, the North Cascades Visitors Center’s audio-visual presentations offer a variety of points of view on the area. Take the short wood-planked path behind the center to a viewpoint overlooking the beautiful Picket Range. Continue west on Hwy 20 to return to I-5 and you’ll be back to Seattle in about an hour.

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